GT350 Build for SCCA Nationals

[WItoTX]

I got around to making pad changes way more convenient. Now that I am shifting to more track time and less AutoX time, I think pad swaps specific to AutoX and track days are inevitable. As most know, the back of the front Brembo's have a bridge, meaning you have to pull the whole caliper off, hang it from a wire or set it on a crib, then finagle the new pads and titanium shim plate back on, while holding the caliper up and lining up the caliper bolts to the knuckle. Here is a photo of me dealing with that issue.

Well OP has solved that problem. I bought their brake stud kit and installed a couple weekends ago, along with R12 pads for the front and R10s for the rear. You can see the studs installed in the photo above. The install is simple, with clear instructions, and awesome customer support from OP Mustang as usual. Here is the caliper installed on the studs, with the handles installed. What you can see is the caliper will slide all the way out to the handles, allowing the rotor to be pulled and sanded to remove bedding material, and then pads swapped easily, without the balancing act of a wheel crib or zip tie to hold the caliper.

I didn't grab photos of the rears, but the rear Brembos you can swap from the top of the caliper as there is no bridge. Which was perfect, because the parking brake cable refused to come off, and I lost my patience with trying to get the rear caliper off to sand the rotor after that. I sanded the rotor on the car, and left the caliper on. The surface is now nice and prepped, and I was able to bed the pads to the rotors.

The performance from these new pads is mind blowing. Half the pedal input to get the same output from the pads. I have a track day this weekend at Eagles Canyon Raceway, and am looking forward to the new found brake power!

Next step is going to be removing the parking brake completely, and saving the weight. I had an inconsistent click/tap sound coming from the rear for some time now, and I thought it might be the drive shaft. While I was spinning the rear axle, I realized the click is actually coming from the parking brake itself, and confirmed there was no play in the rear hub and no issues with the CV joints. So the parking brake will be removed.

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[COBRAFREAK1996]

I recently purchased these as well but haven't put them on yet. After the pita it was to get the original caliper bolts out and back in to change my studs and knowing I'll be changing brakes more often it made sense.

 

[WItoTX]

I recently purchased these as well but haven't put them on yet. After the pita it was to get the original caliper bolts out and back in to change my studs and knowing I'll be changing brakes more often it made sense.

They are really nice, OP sends the grease and locktite with the kit, and apart from the bolt they sent to install the studs had the set screw set too deep and I didn't bother to check before I put the first stud in, the install is really easy.

The studs also thread in much easier than the factory bolts. The caliper bolts are one time use too. So it's a win all the way around.

 

[WItoTX]

Track weekend at ECR in North Texas. 5 of us met up Friday night (The M1 isn't pictured, he left late).

The weekend went well, with some minor issues. Here is my fastest I could muster, a 2.12 going CW.


The track is amazing. Smooth, very forgiving surface with tons of grip. The videos don't do justice to the elevation changes. I have a lot of time I can suck out from the lap, but for a second event, I am content with the 2.12. The entire weekend was humbling.

I may have overheated the brakes, which lead to a little vibration under hard braking. My instructor didn't seem overly concerned, and so I am going to grease the brakes again (I didn't put any on the pistons) and give it all another shot before dropping $1200 on rotors.

Another fix. I need to add the deflectors to the tension rods on the front of my car to get more air across the brakes themselves.

Things learned:
1. The car has so much grip. Get on throttle much earlier out of corners.
2. The brakes are lights out good now.
3. Keep a detailed log of track experience.
4. Shit comes loose. Don't be afraid to get the car in the air between runs and inspect. It very likely saved me from a catastrophic suspension failure.
5. Car runs at 248 and heats to that temp quickly, then holds there.
6. Track temps dictate how fast you will go. Be ready in the first heat to put your best time in, and use the afternoon sessions to work on particular skills.
7. My trail braking needs a ton of work.

Now for a little track car p*rn....SPARKS!

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