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RallyNorthAmerica.com
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- Jan 9, 2015
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- Central Ohio
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- www.imprtcl.com
- First Name
- Brian
- Vehicle(s)
- '15 Fastback GT Guard
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- #1
Got the car aligned this afternoon so this project is finally done. Jump to the bottom for a before/after stance shot if you get bored...
My car is an auto so no Performance Pack, which I was fine with since lots of people are swapping most of the PP parts out. The ride was nice but a little too squishy on the backroads. My goal was to get things up to PP level or better.
Parts List:
CJR001 - Chassis Jacking Rail
UPPER MOUNT - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z3A197B)
SHOCK ABSORBER ASY - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18124AB)
FC003 - Camber Bolts, Front, 2.5 Degrees Offset
ELK012 - End Link Kit For Sway Bars, Set Of 4
SB043 - Sway Bar Kit With Bushings, Front (SB044), Rear (SB045)
SP080 - Lowering Springs, Set Of 4, Performance
Steeda S550 Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane
TCA045 - Vertical Link, Rear Lower Control Arms, Spherical
CB005 - Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
TR005 Toe Rods, Rear, Double Adjustable, Rod Ends
BK055 - Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear
Ford Racing Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly
Ford Racing Mustang Jounce Bumper and Hardware Pack
SHOCK ABSORBER - 2016 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18125W)
So step one was the jacking rails. They made getting the car up in the air super easy and it was rock solid on my heavy jack stand set.
I tore into the front first since it was my first time actually unmounting a spring from a McPherson strut. I had no real issues in the front other than the sway bar bolt under the alternator. Get a ratcheting end wrench to save a ton of time taking it off.
Next up was the rear. My main goal the first day was to get the lower control arms off so I can try to swap the BK055 in. The front inner control arm bolt was tough to get broke loose, finally got it with an end wrench after I took off the toe rod and attacked it from the bottom. I tried to move the bushing with the FTBR bushing press kit. I finally gave up and took it to a shop so that was my day one stopping point. :frusty:
Day two started with getting the diff inserts in and the cradle bushing lockout kit in place. Having the cross bar for my jack really helped when moving the cradle around. Diff bushings were easy other than the drivers side front. I had to loosen all the cradle bolts and push the cradle back as far as possible to get the bolt and bushing slipped between the cradle and gas tank.
Then came knuckle to toe link bushing. Since my car came with PP toe links I could have reused the bushing from them. I wanted to be able to put the car back to stock eventually and didn't feel like trying to press it out it was worth is so I just bought the FR ones. Pressing the bushing out of the car would have been much easier if I could have gotten the car a little more off the ground or I had a slightly shorter breaker bar. It was too much torque for a ratchet and my impact wrench wasn't moving it on full. Same issue pressing them back in, other than that no big deal.
Here are some comparisons of the stock vs new parts:
Everything else went back together smoothly. Just use a jack to move the control arm up/down until there is no pressure on the bolt you're working with. If you do the toe rods my squares that lockout the factory audjustment were not prefectly square, they only fully seat between the ears when rotated one way. The other way they almost drop in but not all the way. Just something to watch for.
I took the car to Lucore Automotive in Plain City, OH to clock the bushings and align it. They are also the ones who pressed the BK055 in for me. They did a great job on the alignment, even weighted the drivers seat so it would be setup for me.
Before/After:
The car handles and rides great so far. I was surprised at how decent the ride is considering the amount of rubber removed from the rear. There is a tiny bit of diff noise but you can barely hear it over my MBRP Street exhaust. Only other noise is a little drive-line clunk that is audible when lifting off the gas at lower speeds.
Big thanks to [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] for putting up with my questions and the work they put into making such great parts. :cheers:
My car is an auto so no Performance Pack, which I was fine with since lots of people are swapping most of the PP parts out. The ride was nice but a little too squishy on the backroads. My goal was to get things up to PP level or better.
Parts List:
CJR001 - Chassis Jacking Rail
UPPER MOUNT - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z3A197B)
SHOCK ABSORBER ASY - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18124AB)
FC003 - Camber Bolts, Front, 2.5 Degrees Offset
ELK012 - End Link Kit For Sway Bars, Set Of 4
SB043 - Sway Bar Kit With Bushings, Front (SB044), Rear (SB045)
SP080 - Lowering Springs, Set Of 4, Performance
Steeda S550 Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane
TCA045 - Vertical Link, Rear Lower Control Arms, Spherical
CB005 - Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
TR005 Toe Rods, Rear, Double Adjustable, Rod Ends
BK055 - Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear
Ford Racing Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly
Ford Racing Mustang Jounce Bumper and Hardware Pack
SHOCK ABSORBER - 2016 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18125W)
So step one was the jacking rails. They made getting the car up in the air super easy and it was rock solid on my heavy jack stand set.
I tore into the front first since it was my first time actually unmounting a spring from a McPherson strut. I had no real issues in the front other than the sway bar bolt under the alternator. Get a ratcheting end wrench to save a ton of time taking it off.
Next up was the rear. My main goal the first day was to get the lower control arms off so I can try to swap the BK055 in. The front inner control arm bolt was tough to get broke loose, finally got it with an end wrench after I took off the toe rod and attacked it from the bottom. I tried to move the bushing with the FTBR bushing press kit. I finally gave up and took it to a shop so that was my day one stopping point. :frusty:
Day two started with getting the diff inserts in and the cradle bushing lockout kit in place. Having the cross bar for my jack really helped when moving the cradle around. Diff bushings were easy other than the drivers side front. I had to loosen all the cradle bolts and push the cradle back as far as possible to get the bolt and bushing slipped between the cradle and gas tank.
Then came knuckle to toe link bushing. Since my car came with PP toe links I could have reused the bushing from them. I wanted to be able to put the car back to stock eventually and didn't feel like trying to press it out it was worth is so I just bought the FR ones. Pressing the bushing out of the car would have been much easier if I could have gotten the car a little more off the ground or I had a slightly shorter breaker bar. It was too much torque for a ratchet and my impact wrench wasn't moving it on full. Same issue pressing them back in, other than that no big deal.
Here are some comparisons of the stock vs new parts:
Everything else went back together smoothly. Just use a jack to move the control arm up/down until there is no pressure on the bolt you're working with. If you do the toe rods my squares that lockout the factory audjustment were not prefectly square, they only fully seat between the ears when rotated one way. The other way they almost drop in but not all the way. Just something to watch for.
I took the car to Lucore Automotive in Plain City, OH to clock the bushings and align it. They are also the ones who pressed the BK055 in for me. They did a great job on the alignment, even weighted the drivers seat so it would be setup for me.
Before/After:
The car handles and rides great so far. I was surprised at how decent the ride is considering the amount of rubber removed from the rear. There is a tiny bit of diff noise but you can barely hear it over my MBRP Street exhaust. Only other noise is a little drive-line clunk that is audible when lifting off the gas at lower speeds.
Big thanks to [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] for putting up with my questions and the work they put into making such great parts. :cheers:
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