First disaster - snapped hood bolt

[Bullittproof]

Edit. Found what I was looking for.

Use one of these.

Grind to length.
https://www.mcmaster.com/barrel-nuts/

…or a coupler nut and shirt bolt + thread loc

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[DougS550]

That's a ft lbs wrench.
First, they are notoriously inaccurate in the very low range.
Second, 17 ft lbs seems awfully high for those bolts, 7 ft lbs (84 inch lbs) sounds like a better guess.
In any case, that big of a torque wrench is not the right tool for that job.

Yep. My thoughts also. Investment in 1/4" drive, inch pound torque wrench for smaller lbs in settings. Hood bolts are M6 x 1.0 studs. Ouch

 

[Mak3fit]

Are rhe hinge and the hood both aluminum? If not then I don't think that it's possible to weld aluminum to steel. At least not easily.
The bolts are plenty strong enough to hold the hood to the hinge. The issue isn't their holding strength it's the over torqueing them that's the issue.

Makes sense thanks, well hopefully my shop can find a fix or someone else can weld my broken bolt back on…

 

[GT Pony]

Are rhe hinge and the hood both aluminum?

They are steel. Check with a magnet.

 

[GT Pony]

In case anyone missed post #33, the torque specs for the hood nuts is lower for the 2018+ Mustangs. I believe Ford used smaller studs in the 2018+ Mustangs.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-disaster-snapped-hood-bolt.104242/post-2255728

 

[GT Pony]

Yep. My thoughts also. Investment in 1/4" drive, inch pound torque wrench for smaller lbs in settings. Hood bolts are M6 x 1.0 studs. Ouch

I just measured the hood hinge studs on my 2015 with a caliper and they are clearly 8 mm diameter. So the 2018+ Mustangs have the 6 mm studs, and that's why the torque spec is lower for them as shown in post #33. I still wouldn't torque to 17 ft-lbs specified for the 2015-2017 models, but would rather use 13-14 ft-lbs on the 8 mm studs.

 

[Mak3fit]

They are steel. Check with a magnet.

So can it be welded to the hood reliably then?

 

[GT Pony]

So can it be welded to the hood reliably then?

Some have said in earlier posts that a threaded stud can be welded to the broken stud if there's enough there to do so and you find a good welder.

 

[ORRadtech]

They are steel. Check with a magnet.

I just checked. The hood is aluminum. In the hinge area the aluminum is sandwiched between the metal hinge and a steel backing plate. He would be trying to weld the metal hinge to the aluminum hood skin. The only way welding might work is to weld the hinge to the remains of the stud through the hole in the hinge.
Honestly I don't know why anyone would want to make such a permanent attachment there. I'd much rather weld a threaded rod to the remainder of the broken one or carefully drill the remainder out and put a nut sert in.

 

[GT Pony]

I just checked. The hood is aluminum. In the hinge area the aluminum is sandwiched between the metal hinge and a steel backing plate. He would be trying to weld the metal hinge to the aluminum hood skin. The only way welding might work is to weld the hinge to the remains of the stud through the hole in the hinge.
Honestly I don't know why anyone would want to make such a permanent attachment there. I'd much rather weld a threaded rod to the remainder of the broken one or carefully drill the remainder out and put a nut sert in.

Yeah, the correct fix isn't to weld the steel hinge to the aluminum hood skin. I only answered the question of the hinge and stud where steel or aluminum. They are steel.

I don't think a "nut sert" will work ... doesn't look like enough meat on the hood side to install on like they are designed to be installed. Nobody in this thread has shown one being used yet as a fix.

 

[ORRadtech]

There's plenty of "meat" if you include the backing plate. The reason it would be a last resort for me is having to drill the stud through the backing plate. I'm assuming the stud is either press fit or intragal to the backing plate. I'd want a very secure collar or something on the drill bit so I didn't accidentally damage the outer skin. If it wasn't for fear of damaging the outer skin an insert would probably be my first choice. Done properly they are very secure.

 

[tosha]

I don't see any benefit in trying to torque this to a certain spec. I just used very small 1/4 ratchet with careful hand torque. Those bolts are idiotic.

 

[GT Pony]

There's plenty of "meat" if you include the backing plate. The reason it would be a last resort for me is having to drill the stud through the backing plate. I'm assuming the stud is either press fit or intragal to the backing plate. I'd want a very secure collar or something on the drill bit so I didn't accidentally damage the outer skin. If it wasn't for fear of damaging the outer skin an insert would probably be my first choice. Done properly they are very secure.

How thick is the metal backing plate inside the hood structure where a Nutsert would have to go? Plus, how you going to drill out the snapped off stud perfectly with causing more chaos. Only way I'd ever attempt that kind of fix would by removing the hood so it could be worked on easier. Nobody that I've seen in this thread as tried the Nutsert or similar fix.

 

[Mak3fit]

Some have said in earlier posts that a threaded stud can be welded to the broken stud if there's enough there to do so and you find a good welder.

yea got it was just asking to know. I will see what my performance shop sais tommorow and update you guys, wish me luck.

 

[elmach1]

Hey all I have just been through this. planned to drill down the bolt, tap it out, re-thread it, and put in a double sided bolt so I can retain the some washer/nut. Turns out what's under there is a bolt and washer welded together so not thick enough...
Plan B. drill out hole and use a M6 riv nut, then double sided m6 stud from ace hardware...
I then screwed the hem nut back on and used a paint pen to paint it up. looks like new!!

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