DSS driveshaft interference.

[z06psi]

So I installed my DSS CF driveshaft and have some issues.

I have interference. Got under the car and the emergency brake cable holder on top of the trans tunnel is hitting the shaft on hard acceleration.

Anyone else have this?


I also have a vibration at 45-50. I have seen a post where people are shimming the trans cross member down to help.


Any input on this? How many washers did you use? Guess I need to do some pinion measurements to get an idea.


TIA

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[z06psi]

Update:

The interference was actually the BMR driveshaft safety loop hitting the U-joint. Put some washers between the mount and the loop. All is good on the interference.

Clocked the driveshaft 90 degrees counter clockwise and no help.

Bought some rather large washers to go between the trans cross member and the body of the car. No help.

Going to clock the driveshaft another 90 degrees counter clockwise to see if that clears it up.

 

[z06psi]

Rotated the diff side another 90 degrees. No help.

Going to rotate the trans side 180 degrees and if that doesn't fix it then it is coming off and going back to stock.

What a waste of time and money.

 

[pro 5.0]

That sucks but this seems to be a reality with any aftermarket 1 piece shaft, it's pretty bad that these companies keep taking peoples money for something that causes more problems than it solves.

 

[z06psi]

I cannot go above 45 mph. The vibration is so bad I cannot see out the rear view mirror. I understand adding NVH but making the car undrive-able is something different.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Which is why I didn’t go DSS on my GT350.

I hated it on my EB and my Evo.

Qa1 seems to be the way.

 

[z06psi]

If this final rotation doesn't work I am going to look into running the guibo with it.

Does the QA1 run a guibo?

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

If this final rotation doesn't work I am going to look into running the guibo with it.

Does the QA1 run a guibo?

Nope not on the Gt350 anyway. In the directions it doesn’t mention reusing the GT guibo afaik

http://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/qa1-cf-ds.pdf

 

[z06psi]

As the driveshaft turns.


So I rotated the front 180 degrees which is opposite of the marks that DSS put on them and now the vibration is way less. I can get to 65mph now but I still have it to where the rear view mirror is unview-able.

Got one last adjustment in the rear I want to try and one thing to look at before I replace it with the stock shaft.

 

[08StangGT_CS]

Sucks to read that. There have been issues with aftermarket shafts since I got involved with mustangs 10 years ago hence why I have never used one. Was actually thinking of getting one this time around.

 

[z06psi]

So I found the problem I think. I will elaborate once I get it all back together and there is no vibration.


The seller did not give me all the hardware. I will leave it at that for now.

 

[Lonmon]

I had to reclock the dss aluminum shaft I had 3 times till the vibration went away. What a pain in the ass!

 

[z06psi]

So the adapter for the rear diff. I asked the seller about the bolts that go from the adapter to the pinion flange. He said use the stock ones.


Well they fit in the hole and appeared to cinch the adapter down. Well they weren't. The shoulder of the stock bolts kept that from happening. Went to Lowes and they didn't have the M10x1.50 at all in a socket head.

Home Depot did. Going to re-clock everything back to the DSS lines and go from there. Not pissed about the 15 bucks in bolts but I am about the time it took to get it figured out. I have so much going on right now.

 

[z06psi]

Well that was it.


Slight vibration at 100mph but not like it was.


Two things learned.


The dude before me took off of his car and he says he didn't install it.

Well on the trans side the three bolts that go into the stock flange. Do not put the lock washers under the socket head bolts. The lock washers go on the nuts after you screw them in. If you put them under the socket head bolts then they stick out where there is interference between the shaft flange and the billet adapter. The previous owner had them like this and it wore three spots into the face of the flange. I caught that before installation.

You can see the witness marks where the socket head bolt was contacting the flange. The bolt in the foreground is correct. The bolt sticking up in the background is not and has the washer on it.

The second thing is make sure you get all the hardware. The socket head bolts needed for the rear adapter to pinion flange is M10x1.50x35mm.

Stock bolt shoulder interference.

Works like a charm.

I am going to rotate the tail of the shaft one last time to see if I can get the 100+ vibration to go away.

 

[pro 5.0]

So you are saying that the vibration was caused by a loose pinion flange adapter, also I'm curious about this clocking the driveshaft. Does the stock driveshaft have any marks on it to indicate its installation position and if so would it cause a vibration if not clocked correctly, or is it simply the 1 piece design of the aftermarket shaft is more sensitive.

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