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Couple datalogging questions (Lund nGauge)

KrisR

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Hey all. Got my Lund 93 tune loaded up last night, and got a file from them today with all the PIDs for logging.

Couple things, because I like looking at my logs and knowing what's going on...

How much spark advance are you guys / gals seeing at WOT? My log only shows between -2 to 2 degrees of spark at WOT. At cruise it's typically in the mid-20 range. Both of these seem a lot lower than I'm used to with previous cars (even older power-adder-equipped Mustangs), which usually had around 35-40 degrees at cruise and 14-17 degrees at WOT on pump gas (a little more on E85 typically). Maybe the new stuff just reads differently now?

How do I convert the MAP reading to boost in psi? I'm seeing around 71-72 on the MAP sensor reading at WOT in 4th near the top end. What's that convert to in boost pressure?

Thanks!
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KrisR

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Got it, thanks. So yeah, I logged a peak of around 72.7 on the MAP sensor, so that number minus barometric pressure (29.8), multiply that by .491154 = 21.1lbs of boost. Makes sense. Is that pretty conservative for 93 pump gas? I know it's only one factor. Peak spark of about 4 degrees near the top of a 4th gear pull. -4 degrees at the initial spoolup point.

Edit, after doing some reading the boost number seems slightly low BUT The logs were done in ambient temps of only around 37 degrees. It sounds like generally the MAP/boost pressure will be lower in cool temps because the hp/load targets in the tune can be met with less boost than in warm temps. I expect that I will see more boost in warm temps.
 
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Juben

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Got it, thanks. So yeah, I logged a peak of around 72.7 on the MAP sensor, so that number minus barometric pressure (29.8), multiply that by .491154 = 21.1lbs of boost. Makes sense. Is that pretty conservative for 93 pump gas? I know it's only one factor. Peak spark of about 4 degrees near the top of a 4th gear pull. -4 degrees at the initial spoolup point.

Edit, after doing some reading the boost number seems slightly low BUT The logs were done in ambient temps of only around 37 degrees. It sounds like generally the MAP/boost pressure will be lower in cool temps because the hp/load targets in the tune can be met with less boost than in warm temps. I expect that I will see more boost in warm temps.
21 psi and 4° of timing up top is a little more conservative than some tunes, but it's certainly going to be better than stock. However, it's worth noted that this seems like you're saying it's a base file and that would explain why those values are lower. It's best to start too low than to start too high. Once you get a few revisions on the tune, I'm sure those numbers will start to increase. :thumbsup:

Edit: Also, to add to your comments above about timing on other vehicles, a turbo, direct injected 4 cylinder will be tuned differently and won't take 25° of ignition timing like a NA V8 might.
 
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KrisR

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21 psi and 4° of timing up top is a little more conservative than some tunes, but it's certainly going to be better than stock. However, it's worth noted that this seems like you're saying it's a base file and that would explain why those values are lower. It's best to start too low than to start too high. Once you get a few revisions on the tune, I'm sure those numbers will start to increase. :thumbsup:

Edit: Also, to add to your comments above about timing on other vehicles, a turbo, direct injected 4 cylinder will be tuned differently and won't take 25° of ignition timing like a NA V8 might.
Thanks for the info. I sent logs in to Lund and they said they look good for 93 octane and stock intercooler/exhaust. I'd imagine that the tune can get more aggressive with intercooler/downpipe improvements and still stay out of detonation. Also, again, with temps in the 30s here I can understand the lower boost numbers. I'd imagine on a warm day the boost numbers will increase a little because of the less-dense ambient air.

Yeah I knew 20+ degrees of timing under boost was out of the question, but I know that with timing in the single digits at WOT my older (aftermarket) turbo cars wouldn't even run. But I can understand that the Ecoboost engine is probably so much more efficient that 'conventional' thinking about ignition advance has to go out the window.

Thanks for the comment!
 

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Juben

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Thanks for the info. I sent logs in to Lund and they said they look good for 93 octane and stock intercooler/exhaust. I'd imagine that the tune can get more aggressive with intercooler/downpipe improvements and still stay out of detonation. Also, again, with temps in the 30s here I can understand the lower boost numbers. I'd imagine on a warm day the boost numbers will increase a little because of the less-dense ambient air.

Yeah I knew 20+ degrees of timing under boost was out of the question, but I know that with timing in the single digits at WOT my older (aftermarket) turbo cars wouldn't even run. But I can understand that the Ecoboost engine is probably so much more efficient that 'conventional' thinking about ignition advance has to go out the window.

Thanks for the comment!
Yeah, an upgraded intercooler will make the biggest difference for you in regards to mods. You'd definitely be able to run a little more timing due to the CATs not soaring to Jupiter. The downpipe will mainly help with keeping boost levels stable and reduce stress on the turbo. With a DI engine, it's tuning and characteristics are definitely going to be different. It sounds like you're on the right path with it all though. Welcome to the club, sir! :headbang:
 
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KrisR

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Thanks! MAP intercooler and catless downpipe should be on the car in a couple weeks or so.
 

Juben

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Thanks! MAP intercooler and catless downpipe should be on the car in a couple weeks or so.
Very nice! Don't forget to grab a set of colder plugs (Denso ITV22 or NGK 6510) to go along with those.
 

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Thanks! MAP intercooler and catless downpipe should be on the car in a couple weeks or so.
intercooler and dp will be huge help to your power goals.

let me know if your interested in our Krona Performance downpipe, we have catted and catless available for great prices. Can also help you out with eithr plugs, ngk or denso.
 
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KrisR

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Very nice! Don't forget to grab a set of colder plugs (Denso ITV22 or NGK 6510) to go along with those.
NGK 6510s gapped to .028 went in before the tune, Lund said to do so. :)
 

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Juben

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NGK 6510s gapped to .028 went in before the tune, Lund said to do so. :)
I like you, KrisR. You're going places, lol. Now all you need is an intercooler and you'll be ready to crank that baby up! :headbang:
 
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KrisR

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I like you, KrisR. You're going places, lol. Now all you need is an intercooler and you'll be ready to crank that baby up! :headbang:
Haha, thanks. I've owned turbo Mustangs in the distant past (a gray '84 SVO when I was just out of high school) and more recently a 630whp/700wtq '05 GT with an On3 kit and then a '99 GT Convertible that made just under 700whp and 700wtq, also with an On3 (that one had their 76mm BB turbo). I'm coming directly from a 2012 GT with a couple bolt-ons that ran mid-11s. So I have some experience with the older platforms and reading / interpreting logs from them. It's neat to learn about the new platform.
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