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Cost to replace blown Ecoboom engine?

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Datalux

Datalux

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Generally $3600 + labor etc for a complete engine is not too bad as far as a complete long block is concerned, and if you send the core its 1K less. So technically you could easily just budget the whole $3600+ as installed. It is a good option to go back to a stock unit if you smoke it, provided you do not kill the turbo too. And yeah who knows what the difference is with the [E-F] model. I was not under the impression the base or PP versions were any different.
If someone is buying a new engine, what condition of core do they expect to get back? Mine has a hole, I can't image it's an optimal exchange. Ya, I'll go back to stock and FP tune just for the warranty. Can't afford to do this twice (much less once) - wife would shoot me, cut my nuts off and then burn me alive, but only after stabbing me thru the eye with my broken rod. Maybe the PP vs. non-PP has something to do with the higher performance cooling on the PP. Larger hose interface or valve somewhere.
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trippleyelo

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Also be aware, Adams group is his personal echo chamber. He will remove anything remotely critical of hom and ban you from the group.
To bad..

Never got involved for that reason ! I'm glad we have comfort here with truth justice and the American way
Hard workers and information in the way " facts"not fluff..
 
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5.0yote

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If someone is buying a new engine, what condition of core do they expect to get back? Mine has a hole, I can't image it's an optimal exchange. Ya, I'll go back to stock and FP tune just for the warranty. Can't afford to do this twice (much less once) - wife would shoot me, cut my nuts off and then burn me alive, but only after stabbing me thru the eye with my broken rod. Maybe the PP vs. non-PP has something to do with the higher performance cooling on the PP. Larger hose interface or valve somewhere.
My point is if you have no core $3600 is not a bad deal money wise, better than 6K =)
 

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If someone is buying a new engine, what condition of core do they expect to get back? Mine has a hole, I can't image it's an optimal exchange. Ya, I'll go back to stock and FP tune just for the warranty. Can't afford to do this twice (much less once) - wife would shoot me, cut my nuts off and then burn me alive, but only after stabbing me thru the eye with my broken rod. Maybe the PP vs. non-PP has something to do with the higher performance cooling on the PP. Larger hose interface or valve somewhere.
The performance pack includes a larger radiator, which is required to run the car above 120 mph. Cars without the performance pack are governed to 120 mph.
 

trippleyelo

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The performance pack includes a larger radiator, which is required to run the car above 120 mph. Cars without the performance pack are governed to 120 mph.

In stock form

Access port fixes this issue..
 

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trippleyelo

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The performance pack includes a larger radiator, which is required to run the car above 120 mph. Cars without the performance pack are governed to 120 mph.

In stock form

Access port fixes this issue..
 

Livernois Motorsports

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If the dealership ends up not helping you out by warrentying your engine why not give us a call and instead of paying all of that money for a stock engine have us build one that can take the heat! You can give us a call at 313-561-5500 and we can help you out!
 

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In stock form

Access port fixes this issue..
I wouldn't really call it an "issue," it's more of a feature. Like all turbocharged engines, it produces a great deal of heat, and without the larger radiator it'll overheat if you run it for any length of time at a high power setting. This is especially true if you tune it to make more power than stock.
 

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The bigger radiator is intended to keep things cool for extended periods of WOT yes, but on a road course track.

The base radiator is more than adequate for a single jaunt to 120+. I've been over 120 a few times in mine with the temps staying completely normal.

Manufacturers usually impose a speed limiter because of the tires that are equipped from the factory and what the rating of them are.
 

trippleyelo

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The bigger radiator is intended to keep things cool for extended periods of WOT yes, but on a road course track.

The base radiator is more than adequate for a single jaunt to 120+. I've been over 120 a few times in mine with the temps staying completely normal.

Manufacturers usually impose a speed limiter because of the tires that are equipped from the factory and what the rating of them are.

yes....

my stock tire came with a y96 good year f1 tire so rated for over 150 mph
and yes the lower rated tire could fail so keep in eye out foulks,,:cheers:

big radiator is the way to go 'on track days' if not on meth...
 

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TorqueMan

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The bigger radiator is intended to keep things cool for extended periods of WOT yes, but on a road course track.

The base radiator is more than adequate for a single jaunt to 120+. I've been over 120 a few times in mine with the temps staying completely normal.
Sure. And it's probably not THAT harmful to occasionally rev the engine to the rev limiter while sitting at a red light.

I don't doubt you can push the car over 120 mph for brief periods without boiling the coolant. But the coolant temp displayed on the instrument panel is only one indication of engine heat. "Overheat" doesn't mean the coolant is too hot, it means the components cooled by the coolant are too hot. It takes time for the heat generated by those components to transfer to the coolant. I would urge caution.

Manufacturers usually impose a speed limiter because of the tires that are equipped from the factory and what the rating of them are.
That's true in a lot of cases, but not in this case. In an interview with autoevolution.com, S550 Mustang Chief Engineer Dave Pericak was asked the reason for the speed limitations on the non-Performance Pack cars. He said:

Well, you get into a situation where cooling becomes a huge concern. We have very stringent requirement we have to meet. So engine cooling is the main factor here.​
 
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Datalux

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The performance pack includes a larger radiator, which is required to run the car above 120 mph. Cars without the performance pack are governed to 120 mph.
That's understood, but what is the difference between the engine block for a PP vs. non-PP. Ford lists (2) P/N's:
GR3Z6006E - ENGINE - Mustang; w/o Performance Package
GR3Z6006F - ENGINE - Mustang; w/ Performance Package
 

TorqueMan

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That's understood, but what is the difference between the engine block for a PP vs. non-PP. Ford lists (2) P/N's:
GR3Z6006E - ENGINE - Mustang; w/o Performance Package
GR3Z6006F - ENGINE - Mustang; w/ Performance Package
I dunno. :shrug:
 

Brian V

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That's understood, but what is the difference between the engine block for a PP vs. non-PP. Ford lists (2) P/N's:
GR3Z6006E - ENGINE - Mustang; w/o Performance Package
GR3Z6006F - ENGINE - Mustang; w/ Performance Package
Apparently you have the PP engine . If you could do the research that is necessary to answer your question which would take your time and effort to establish a difference between the engine designation that would be helpful with your topic of the discussion .

At this juncture 1 could only assume any differences between the code designations .

I am of the mind set to think there is no differences between the codes for the engines .
The differences are supportive of the structure that support the chassis , suspension , ECM . Transmision Module , BCM . Wheels and tires and anything else with the PP Package ..
 

ElAviator72

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That's understood, but what is the difference between the engine block for a PP vs. non-PP. Ford lists (2) P/N's:
GR3Z6006E - ENGINE - Mustang; w/o Performance Package
GR3Z6006F - ENGINE - Mustang; w/ Performance Package
AFAIK, the blocks should be identical. The only difference I'm aware of (and it's not a casting difference) is that the PP uses the plug for the block heater for the oil pressure sending unit...and that's also the reason you can't order a PP car with the cold weather package ;) Maybe Ford sells you the long block with the sending unit already in place? :shrug:

EDIT: I wonder if the oil pan in one has baffles. I've heard that Ford has changed oil pans frequently during EBM production, with some oil pans having baffles and other not. PP cars are supposed to be able to corner at 1G with the P-Zeroes on the car...I can see some oil starvation issues there if you abuse that frequently!
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