Changing wheels @ home-what's needed?

[ElAviator72]

Things I can think of:

Jack/jackstands (got those)

Torque Wrench (to check torque of lug nuts-150 lb/ft.)-got one

Anything needed for the TPMS sensors (funky magnetic wands, etc.)?

Thanks!

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[Kevin08]

TPMS self learns so nothing needed there.

I would look into those specific lug sockets, they are coated with plastic on the outside (and on the inside I think) so as to not damage your wheels when they inevitably make contact.

 

[Deleted member 35644]

So I didn't even need the programming tool? Even for aftermarket TPMS?

 

[Kevin08]

If you bought the appropriate FOMOCO TPMS sensors (TPMS35 for 2018MY), there's no need for the tool.

 

[69mach1-395]

Or a spreader beam for the jack also works...

 

[sdiver68]

Add.

Longish 1/2 inch socket wrench...I don't use my TQ wrench except for final tightening.

Battery impact wrench, makes it fast to get lugs off and on. Mine does about 60 ft/lbs so perfect for getting mostly tight prior to lowering car to finish with TQ wrench.

I use a little grease for the lugs and inside wheel.

Don't forget pressure gauge and air supply.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I swap wheels a lot. Here's what I use:

+ Breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts (don't kill your torque wrench using it as a breaker
+ Jack w/ a spreader beam (2x4 in my case) to place inside the pinch weld. Jacking rails would be a bit nicer.
breaker). I jack up one side of the car and do two wheels at a time.
+ A battery powered impact driver to spin the loosened lugs off, swap tires, and back on.
+ those plastic coated sockets are great if you can find em. Otherwise some fresh tape over a metal thin walled lug nut socket wrench.
+ A good torque wrench, ideally calibrated properly.
+ I then use the Ford TMPS training tool. I have aftermarket TMPS in one set of wheels and Ford ones in another, and with the stored set near the car my car was getting confused and not training to the aftermarket set w/o help. Either way the ~$30 training tool makes sure that when I leave the garage the TMPS are already trained to the new wheels. No need to drive a bunch of miles or wonder if they're showing stale pressures from the old set.

First pass I just use the impact driver to get the lug nuts in the 60-120 range. After you lower one side of the car, the tires will grab and pull to the inside of the vehicle, and if you torque the lug nuts in this state you may need to torque again after driving the car. Simply rolling the car forward and back 15 feet or so will allow the tires to adjust under the vehicle and you can then apply a final 150 ft/lbs torque which will be good, and won't need rechecking after driving.

 

[ElAviator72]

Painters tape applied inside and on the outside of the socket works well to help prevent scratches. Although not necessary, a set of jacking rails comes in handy.

Yeah, thought about those (the jacking rails). Where are the best jacking points for a car with no jacking rails?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah, thought about those (the jacking rails). Where are the best jacking points for a car with no jacking rails?

There are arrows molded into the plastic side trim piece which show the jacking points for the front and rear of the car. Those are about 8" inboard of the wheel wells. You can feel them with your hand or get your head under there and look.

If you want to jack up one side of the car at a time (which is way faster), then you'll need a beam or jacking rail to do so safely w/o bending the pinch weld. I use about 10" of 2x4 just inside that pinch weld at the balance point of the car, with the jack on that 2x4. The center balance point is about half way from the middle of the car to the side mirror.

 

[SiMuL]

No need to overthink this. I no longer use a torque wrench. I have one of those longer 2-2.5 foot breaker bars and an 18v impact wrench.

To Remove
- Use the breaker to break the lugs
- Jack the car up and use impact to finish removing them

To Reinstall
- Use impact to tighten up the lugs
- Lower the car and use the breaker bar to tighten pretty much as tight as you can get it (this will be right around 150lbs)

Drive it a little bit, then hit the lugs with the breaker bar one last time.

Of course, the first time around you may opt to use a torque wrench, but it's really not needed once you're familiar with how tight they need to be.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

Its prett straightforward

Requirments

Body (suitable with arms attached please)
Jack
Jack stands (always for safety)
Socket (22 mm and aftermarket may need 19 mm depending on the lug nut used)
Breaker bar
Torque Wrench
TPMS relearn tool (if not available any local tire shop can sync the sensors)

Wheel items for the swap

Cold Beer
Possibly Pizza

A extra pair of hands if need be

and about 30 minutes of your time

Allow to bake for 45 minutes and walla freshly installed wheels and tires

P.S. (Baking part is humor, do not bake your wheels they will melt or burn)

 

[69mach1-395]

No need to overthink this. I no longer use a torque wrench. I have one of those longer 2-2.5 foot breaker bars and an 18v impact wrench.

To Remove
- Use the breaker to break the lugs
- Jack the car up and use impact to finish removing them

To Reinstall
- Use impact to tighten up the lugs
- Lower the car and use the breaker bar to tighten pretty much as tight as you can get it (this will be right around 150lbs)

Drive it a little bit, then hit the lugs with the breaker bar one last time.

Of course, the first time around you may opt to use a torque wrench, but it's really not needed once you're familiar with how tight they need to be.

Yeah and every person will have a different torque that is not repeatable...:shrug:

 

[ElAviator72]

Just wondering about jacking it up the way I used to do it on previous cars: one end at a time (instead of one side).

I used to jack up the front end on the front frame cross member, and put the jackstands under the frame rails (before the pinch weld starts).

The rear end is where it might get interesting. On a good old fashioned solid rear axle car, you could generally jack it up by the differential housing on the axle. Probably not a good idea on the S550. Is there a frame cross member back there that's not obscured by the fuel tank and the rear fascia?

 

[Grintch]

Yeah, thought about those (the jacking rails). Where are the best jacking points for a car with no jacking rails?

You can somewhat replace jacking rails with slotted pads (looks like a hocky puck with a groove in it) or spacers (T shaped, often with a magnet to hold them in place on the pinch weld). Both spread the load of the jack over a wider surfaces.

A little anti-sieze on the studs/lug nuts is also a good idea.

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