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Changing Lug Nuts

65sohc

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I'm going to change to the black Gorilla lug nuts. If I remove/replace/retorque one nut at a time is there any particular need to raise the car in the air and remove the weight of the car from the wheel/hub assemblies? I would think the other four nuts at full torque would prevent any sort of distortion from occurring.
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stoli

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No, you'll be fine.
 

GT_Dave

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2 opposing lug nuts are plenty to hold your wheel in place, as long as your not trying to drive the car. Each stud can support 35,000 - 40,000 pounds of pull force, so 4 lug nuts will be extra safe.
 

HoosierDaddy

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I'm going to change to the black Gorilla lug nuts. If I remove/replace/retorque one nut at a time is there any particular need to raise the car in the air and remove the weight of the car from the wheel/hub assemblies? I would think the other four nuts at full torque would prevent any sort of distortion from occurring.
I replaced all 20 factory nuts with 20 Gorilla locking lugs. Did them one at a time, on the ground. If yours is like mine, the factory lugs were WAY under-torqued so I did them every other one just in case so multiple 150 torqued ones weren't ever just on one side of a wheel.
 
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65sohc

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Thanks for the responses. I just hope my Harbor Freight torque wrench is up to the task.
 

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RadBOSS

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From an engineers perspective I don't agree with your procedure.

The wheel lugs should tightened progressively. Like in 40 ft-lb increments.

Don't power the wrench until it clicks like the tire shop does, otherwise you over shoot and over torque.

Tightening every other lug is not well balanced. Work your way around by doing opposed lugs, not every other.
 

HoosierDaddy

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From an engineers perspective I don't agree with your procedure.

Tightening every other lug is not well balanced. Work your way around by doing opposed lugs, not every other.
What engineering school did you go to? For a 5 lug wheel, "every other" and "opposing" lugs is the exact same thing. LoL
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