Catch can for 100% stock ecoboost

[Walt]

I have a UPR can that was on my 15 Ecoboost for 35k miles and has been on my 17 Ecoboost for 26k miles. I check the oil on all my cars once a month and empty the catch can at that time. I have never measured the volume I catch but it is typically about 1/4 inch at the bottom. In the winter it is closer to 1/2 inch but the extra is condensation and I have had to heat the can up to melt the ice when it is real cold.

The can came with very high quality braided hoses. The ends that connect to the PCV valve and intake manifold have factory quick connects crimped on. The other ends have an improved quick connects that are much easier to disconnect than the factory connections crimped on. The hoses are much nicer than anything that requires a screw clamp.

In the 61k miles I have used the can it has not leaked or produced any smells. It takes all of 10 seconds to remove the can for emptying by spinning off the threaded knob that holds it to the mounting bracket. The two fittings and other half of the mounting bracket give you plenty of grip at the top and the can is knurled to give you grip so spinning it off is painless.

The big question is how effective is it at keeping the valves clean? I recently purchased a borescope and when the weather gets warmer I will fish it down the intake and take a look. I will post my results.

Thanks for your input! Great to hear things worked out well for you. I'd be very interested seeing those results too, please keep me updated on that.

Do you have the Dual Valve catch can or the single valve one from UPR?

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[dgc333]

I purchased the single valve can (actually no valves, the PCV is the only valve). I don't spend enough time in boost that reversion through the clean side is a concern.

 

[Walt]

I purchased the single valve can (actually no valves, the PCV is the only valve). I don't spend enough time in boost that reversion through the clean side is a concern.

I'm not sure which one to choose, if in boost means anything above 0 then it's very easy to get into boost. But it seems like they say WOT coverage so I'd assume when at max boost levels?

I do like to do a pull now and then and I track my car about once or twice a month. Should a single valve can be sufficient for me? It looks more like a closed loop and less likely to leak

 

[dgc333]

For the driving I do I never saw any oil residue from the clean side line in the intake tube or turbo inlet so for me the single can is sufficient.

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

Hey everyone just wanted to let you guys know any boosted application will benefit from a catch can. They are prone to more blow by and in higher boost can push through more often. Now there is time to time you can see that code pop up and just so you know if you have our tuner or would like to buy the tuner we can adjust the tune to take care of that issue. But besides that we would strongly suggest running a catch can on any boosted engine. Thanks and let me know if I can try to answer anything else for you guys. My name is Jake message me or call me at 313-561-5500

 

[RedEcoJet]

Out of topic here, but since you mentioned that your EB now has 115,000 miles, I gotta ask, since I plan on keeping mine for hopefully 120,000 (I bought my '16 with 10k and now has 55000 - stock). Has the car given you any major issues after, say, 70k? any major work done? transmission & engine still running smooth?

Nothing major. Replaced the temp sensor on the intake. It still mostly worked, but I couldn't clean it well enough. So I replaced it. Replaced the serpentine belt. Replaced the coils due to troubleshooting what felt like an ignition problem. Turned out to be the dirty temp sensor. Plugs don't last more than about 25k for me. Good car.

JerryA

 

[Walt]

For the driving I do I never saw any oil residue from the clean side line in the intake tube or turbo inlet so for me the single can is sufficient.

From what I understand the UPR dual valve catch can doesn't catch oil from the clean side either. It just has another line going to the turbo inlet so it always pulls a vacuum on the PCV system.

But I'm not sure how much of a better job the dual valve one would do over the single one.

 

[dgc333]

That is exactly why I didn't pay the extra $100 for the dual valve can.

 

[Walt]

That is exactly why I didn't pay the extra $100 for the dual valve can.

I see what you mean I'm leaning more towards the single valve one too, just because of the easier installation and less of a mess because of all the hoses. They advertise their dual catch can as the only can that protects your engine during all types of driving. According to their website a single valve catch can only catches oil during idle or at steady highway speeds, not when accelerating.

Since I don't do much highway driving, more city driving I have to accelerate frequently so it just leaves me thinking what I should get. My Mustang is a garage queen so I'm willing to get a can to help against fuel dillution as well because of all the short trips.

May I ask what your type of driving is? Do you track the car sometimes?

 

[dgc333]

My car is a daily driver. My round trip commute is 50 miles. Probably 75% is steady speeds between 35 and 50 mph. I can easily accelerate with traffic without going into boost.

 

[mJolnir]

My experiences with the upr dual valve can is the next:

On a stock turbo, full bolt on 2015 we put a catless downpipe and it started smoking pretty bad, after some research we bought the upr dvcc and it still was smoking the same, so we put the new pcv valve (it had a recall), and still would smoke, at the end we had to take the pcv appart and take the checkball and spring out of it, smoke cured, on after 5,000km of city driving there was almost nothing to clean from the catch can, put new oil and went to a track day (road course) at the end of the day there was like 2 oz of oil.

Later two of my clients decided to go big turbo (stock location) since they had high flow cat on their cars they had no smoke on the stock turbo, but it did with the upgraded turbos, we had to repeat the same operation as the earlier stock turbo car in order to not have the dreaded smoke.

My reflection after all this is that the stock pcv does not flow enough so a catch can with a bigger valve helps only if you eliminate the stock one, a single valved catch can conected to the IM will be enough for most people and the dual valved one will be needed if you spend longer periods at wot (like on the road course, 1/2 mile or 1 mile events).

 

[Walt]

My experiences with the upr dual valve can is the next:

On a stock turbo, full bolt on 2015 we put a catless downpipe and it started smoking pretty bad, after some research we bought the upr dvcc and it still was smoking the same, so we put the new pcv valve (it had a recall), and still would smoke, at the end we had to take the pcv appart and take the checkball and spring out of it, smoke cured, on after 5,000km of city driving there was almost nothing to clean from the catch can, put new oil and went to a track day (road course) at the end of the day there was like 2 oz of oil.

Later two of my clients decided to go big turbo (stock location) since they had high flow cat on their cars they had no smoke on the stock turbo, but it did with the upgraded turbos, we had to repeat the same operation as the earlier stock turbo car in order to not have the dreaded smoke.

My reflection after all this is that the stock pcv does not flow enough so a catch can with a bigger valve helps only if you eliminate the stock one, a single valved catch can conected to the IM will be enough for most people and the dual valved one will be needed if you spend longer periods at wot (like on the road course, 1/2 mile or 1 mile events).

Thank you for the information. I'm still deciding between the dual and single one. I'm leaning more towards the single one because it's less of a mess under the hood and easier to install and since I'm not planning to do any mods except maybe a catback system. I do track the car though (road course) and it's more of a weekend car so daily driving is only short distances. I've been told to get a catch can to help with the fuel dillution too. The dual valve kit seems to be more prone to get a vacuum leak because of the many connections and the long tubes. It also requires me to remove the intake tube and I don't want it to become loose and pop off during a trackday because I might not have tighten it well enough. But since I do spend quite some time under WOT and high speed driving I'm not sure what to get.

 

[BoostedCanadianPoney]

Did you have to clean the catch can itself? Any negative side effects you've experienced?

I think I'm just going to get the mishimoto one which is not too expensive, if it works great if not I'll just remove it. The UPR one looks nice but I think it's overkill of a stock ecoboost.

zero issues. I empty it from now and then, its a simple process. but that's it.
I push the car hard all the time, stock tune for now

 

[JohnDoe]

Why not just get the one by ford?

 

[Deleted member 35644]

Love mine (Ford Motorsports). Looks like a factory installed component, and seems to work well. Got about an ounce in the last 3,000 miles.

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