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Car drives straight, pulls to the right with acceleration?

Digital_Synapse

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The car drives straight under normal conditions coasting, the moment you push for the accelerator it pulls to the right. The harder you accelerate the harder it is. I actually have to steer left to compensate for the pull, when I take my foot off the accelerator the car goes left because I had been compensating and I have to straighten my wheels. What could be wrong with my car? Trouble didn't start until I installed all my suspension stuff.
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NightmareMoon

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When is the last time you got an alignment?
 

El_Centenario

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Re-torque all bolts that were loosen during installation. I had the same issue, and come to find out, after a 200 miles the sub-frame bolts where out of spec. I re-torque to specs and it has been fine for the last 1500 miles. Bolts were re-torque prior to alignment. See below for torque numbers. Page 4 of 4 has the torque specs.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/SP080.pdf
 

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How do you tighten the shocks with the wheels on? I can barely get to the adjusters for the shocks. Do you loosen the subframe bolt and then retorque, or leave it tightish and torque it to spec from there?

Just read this "when the fastener is already "tight" the breakaway torque (when the fastener begins to move) is going to be much higher compared to tightening a fastener from a loose setting. The proper method is to loosen the fastener(s) slightly, then evenly tighten to spec."
 
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El_Centenario

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Your subframe bolts worked loose?!
They were not completely loose to the point of turning by hand but it was enough to cause the same effect as you are describing. I'd say about 1/2 a turn loose. Once I torqued to spec, problem solve. I guess with the vibration and not applying loctite may have caused the bolts to loosen up. I'll check in a few more weeks and add loctite if needed.
 
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They were not completely loose to the point of turning by hand but it was enough to cause the same effect as you are describing. I'd say about 1/2 a turn loose. Once I torqued to spec, problem solve. I guess with the vibration and not applying loctite may have caused the bolts to loosen up. I'll check in a few more weeks and add loctite if needed.
Did you retorque them under load?
 

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El_Centenario

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I still cannot figure out how to tighten these things with weight on the wheel.
The proper way to do it would be on a lift, the ones you drive up on so you can raise the vehicle and get under it to tighten things up. I did it with a Jack and Jack stands. Raise the rear end and remove the wheels and rest it on Jack stands. Now use the Jack and place it under either of the control arms closest to the wheel hub as you can and raise is just until you see the car coming of the Jack. Now that the suspension is under load, loosen the bolts and tighten to spec. Once done, repeat with the other side. Not the best way by It worked for me
 
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The proper way to do it would be on a lift, the ones you drive up on so you can raise the vehicle and get under it to tighten things up. I did it with a Jack and Jack stands. Raise the rear end and remove the wheels and rest it on Jack stands. Now use the Jack and place it under either of the control arms closest to the wheel hub as you can and raise is just until you see the car coming of the Jack. Now that the suspension is under load, loosen the bolts and tighten to spec. Once done, repeat with the other side. Not the best way by It worked for me
That's perfect. Thank you so much, will try this today.

What did you install?
Steeda stuff:
CC plates
Aluminum subframe bushings
Subframe alignment sleeves
Adjustable toe links
Ultralite Springs
Koni yellows

I used Ford Racing/Handling specification for circuit racing as a guideline of where to start.

Front camber: -1.55
Front total toe: 0.00
Rear camber: -1.98
Rear total toe: +0.23
 

Niz55

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Your caster is within spec?

Maybe you should toe in about 5 on each side for better straight line stability and see if that works.
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