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BlackMustang690

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I'm looking for a set of Brake pads for the front and rear as the OEMs are about done after a couple event and 10k miles. I tend to do a good 6-8 events per yr so not sure if I have to get the hardcore racing pads. I see lots of ppl running the glock or carbotech. is there any reason to veer away from the carbotech and towards the glock other than price? i was looking at the r10 F and R8 Rear. or is an r10 recommend as well for the rear? Thanks
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At least one of the principals at G-loc used to be at Carbotech, and the G-loc pads are basically the same formulations as CT's.

I have a set of R10's to go with the 14" SVT/Brembo kit (that unfortunately hasn't made it onto the car yet :( ). Rears are still XP10's, fronts XP12's (keep in mind that's with the little 12.4" front brakes) which was enough pad for the track without being too much for the street - IOW, acceptable cold bite.


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Optimum Performance

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I'm looking for a set of Brake pads for the front and rear as the OEMs are about done after a couple event and 10k miles. I tend to do a good 6-8 events per yr so not sure if I have to get the hardcore racing pads. I see lots of ppl running the glock or carbotech. is there any reason to veer away from the carbotech and towards the glock other than price? i was looking at the r10 F and R8 Rear. or is an r10 recommend as well for the rear? Thanks
Not sure what you run for a tire or driving level/style but R10/R8's are a good place to start. You can run an R12/R10 as well. The OEM pads are fairly rotor aggressive(minor grooving in the rotor surface)so if you switch pads you may want to start with fresh rotors.

The idea behind staggering pad compounds is to maintain a certain level of brake balance (different friction levels) front to rear. Nose heavy, heavy car does most of the braking up front. The backs do contribute a lot more in the S550 chassis due to less anti-dive engineered in but the PP front rotors have much more swept area than the relatively tiny rears.

We stock both combinations and they ship for free in the US :D
 

stoli

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I ran a 10/8 setup all summer for track days and daily use and was quite happy with them.
 

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I use my GTPP for autocross. I've pretty happy with the oem pafs but want to shift the balance towards the rear. Trying to get the car to rotate more while trail braking. What do you guys recommend?

Is there a rear pad I could use in conjunction with the oem fronts to achieve this?
 

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I use my GTPP for autocross. I've pretty happy with the oem pafs but want to shift the balance towards the rear. Trying to get the car to rotate more while trail braking. What do you guys recommend?

Is there a rear pad I could use in conjunction with the oem fronts to achieve this?
In your case I'd be thinking about taking camber out of the back.
 
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Optimum Performance

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I use my GTPP for autocross. I've pretty happy with the oem pafs but want to shift the balance towards the rear. Trying to get the car to rotate more while trail braking. What do you guys recommend?

Is there a rear pad I could use in conjunction with the oem fronts to achieve this?
Not sure on trying to match the OEM front to a rear. That would take some experimenting. Guessing would say and 8 maybe a 10.

Ideally you would want to run a 8/8 for Auto-X in most cases. Could do a 10/10 I suppose. You would want more bite in the rear to help with rotation. 8's are good for Auto-X because they are in their temp range off the starting line.
 

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So, an 8/8 setup would provide more rear bias than the oem PP pads?
 

Optimum Performance

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So, an 8/8 setup would provide more rear bias than the oem PP pads?
Yes, because the friction levels would be the same F and R. Less braking up front allows more braking to be contributed from the rear, so if you trail the car will typically rotate, and if you are running in a class requiring the staggered wheels this will help take braking load off the fronts and allow them to turn the car better instead of sliding them trying to overcome rear grip.

Again it would take some experimentation to find a rear Compound that would match the OE fronts so An R8 Front and rear would give you a level of balance for additional rear bias. Also the G-LOC's are not shaved down like the OE pad so they have a lot more contact surface, using the full swept area in the rear.
 

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[MENTION=18921]jpaulson[/MENTION] this is a comparison between a PP Rear G-LOC R8 (top) and the OEM PP Rear pad (bottom) It illustrates how much surface area Ford removes.
Didn't realise that the oem rear pads were missing so much material. Thanks for the info.
 

Optimum Performance

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Didn't realise that the oem rear pads were missing so much material. Thanks for the info.
I think it may be for Stability Control, the rear is a PFC compound and the fronts are Ferodo. They may do this to limit how they grab so they can keep the understeer in effect for 'normal people' I know if I run in Sport the rear rotors get smoked if I overdrive in a session. Melted rear dust boots are common because the pad surface does a poor job of insulating the caliper from heat.

Maybe someone with inside of Ford info can chime in on the reasoning.
 

tedj101

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I think it may be for Stability Control, the rear is a PFC compound and the fronts are Ferodo. They may do this to limit how they grab so they can keep the understeer in effect for 'normal people' I know if I run in Sport the rear rotors get smoked if I overdrive in a session. Melted rear dust boots are common because the pad surface does a poor job of insulating the caliper from heat.

Maybe someone with inside of Ford info can chime in on the reasoning.
Do you know whether anyone sells replacement dust boots for the rear? Ford doesn't according to my dealer.

Thanks,
<TED>
 

Optimum Performance

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Do you know whether anyone sells replacement dust boots for the rear? Ford doesn't according to my dealer.

Thanks,
<TED>
I do not, they are not in the Motorcraft system, if we had the OEM boot numbers Motorcraft does have a cross reference
From Ford # to Motorcraft. I'm sure they are not special, we just need to find what the number is.
 

tedj101

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I do not, they are not in the Motorcraft system, if we had the OEM boot numbers Motorcraft does have a cross reference
From Ford # to Motorcraft. I'm sure they are not special, we just need to find what the number is.
If you ever get that number I would sure like to get some. Another guy with the same problem ended up buying two new calipers. That's a bit extreme to me.

Thanks,
<TED>
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