Brake cooling routing help

[Competition Orange]

I bought the btbr kit and spent way too long installing it. I used the outside lower grill location and it worked great, very secure. Backing plates mounted up (I will say that the angle of the connection is quite verticle) and everything trimmed for routing hose.

I started with the drivers side and went on the front side of everything. Did not route under control arms and back over sways as recommended as the hose would basically stick 3" under the car and there just isn't enough room.

Issue 1. At full lock (front of tire inward) the tire is fully against the hose. Seems the hose is too large? The car is on jack stands, so will being at drive height eliminate this? Seems doubtful.

Issue 2. About halfway through the turn, the hose it's the inner wheel barrel. I think I can solve this one by trimming the hose slightly shorter but IMO the angle of the connector on the backing plates is too vertical.

Any pics or suggestions on how to route these without rubbing?

PS I'll get pics tonight.

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[lugz]

It's a real PITA getting the ducting routed. I used the JLT kit and ended up using probably a half dozen additional cable ties to pull the duct tighter to the frame to avoid tire contact. Further, on the passenger side, any kind of duct doesn't just slip through the hole from the engine compartment to the wheel well without a fight. Going from lock to lock you see and hear the hose going through all sorts of contortions. It's a mess of an install, but seems to be effective.

 

[Competition Orange]

The jlt backing plates adapeter looks like what I'd expect, straight in which makes more sense vs the ftbr kit.

Also the ftbr is 3" vs 2.5" making space even more valuable for me. I routed as you pictured on the pass side but ran into all sorts of sharp metals and the steering boots etc.

 

[Competition Orange]

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66501&highlight=Cooling

Found this too. Seems it's a common issue, so I'll keep playing with it. Any suggestions would be great.

 

[lugz]

Holy crap, I can't imagine trying to route a 3" duct through there. I also had to ditch the wimpy factory belly pan fastener there at the washer reservoir. Just wouldn't hold. BTW, last time I looked, my ducts were also a little pinched obviously between the sway bar and frame.

BTW, you were able to retain the factory plastic air deflectors that attach to the control arm? There was no way I could make them work with the air ducts installed, but maybe I gave up too easily. Even tried trimming the crap out of one, but even with trimming, it would still interfere with the duct.

 

[Competition Orange]

Holy crap, I can't imagine trying to route a 3" duct through there. I also had to ditch the wimpy factory belly pan fastener there at the washer reservoir. Just wouldn't hold. BTW, last time I looked, my ducts were also a little pinched obviously between the sway bar and frame.

BTW, you were able to retain the factory plastic air deflectors that attach to the control arm? There was no way I could make them work with the air ducts installed, but maybe I gave up too easily. Even tried trimming the crap out of one, but even with trimming, it would still interfere with the duct.

I'll probably replace my plastic belly pan fasteners for zip ties but mine snapped in amazingly. I'll be spending the whole evening screwing with it and report back lol.

No, I removed mine too.

 

[Competition Orange]

Some good news. I was able to get the wheel rubbing eliminated. Going to finish up the passenger side tomorrow and button it all up and drive it around. Then see about the full lock rub. Glad I was able to get some progress!

 

[lugz]

Some good news. I was able to get the wheel rubbing eliminated.

Nice work! Add some pics if you get a chance. :cheers:

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