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SteveS

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I'm shortly going to order the CB005 so it can be fitted at the same time as the Eibach sway bars but have a question. My GT suffers from a misaligned IRS subframe. Will the CB005 pull it back to true or is there a requirement for the Steeda alignment kit as well? I don't recall hearing of others fitting that with their CB005?

Thanks :thumbsup:
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The CB005 centers it at two points (the two front mounting bolts). Adding the Steeda alignment pins for the CB005 centers it up perfectly, ensured at all four mounting points. If you are planning on doing additional modifications to the IRS, I hightly suggest the Steeda pins (they make a set specific to the CB005) as they make dropping and re-installing the IRS a breeze. If you are just putting in springs, getting and alignment, and you're going to leave it be (yeah right!) - then the CB005 is going to be fine alone (though I'd still get the pins so it's perfect).
 

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I put the Steeda alignment bushes in when I did my CB005 a couple of weeks ago... crazy how much play there is in the sleeves through which the bolts pass on the subframe, and not surprising that some of them are way out of whack from the factory.

As [MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION] suggests... it's worth getting the bushings just to get it 100% correct, and they take seconds to fit if you're doing the CB005 anyway.
 

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SteveS

SteveS

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you don't need the full steeda alignment pack as the metal bits in their pack are already covered with the CB005 just get the inserts as listed above if you're going with the cb005 and you're fully done. (well you could always put diff bush inserts in too which would be these bits https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-mustang-adjustable-diff-bushing-insert-system-c2x21108614
Kinda meant the full Steeda instead of CB005/inserts (mostly due to save having to order from the US/shipping/taxes).
Think Gibbo said the diff bushings caused nvh so wasn't going to bother with that?
 

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Diff bushings don't add much NVH if you don't do any Steeda or BMR subframe mounting point bracing (like the CB005 or the bushing inserts). If you do, you'll get some to a lot depending on which ones you go with. I have aluminum and full Steeda rear end and it's not bad at all, actually. I thought it'd be a lot worse. Just accept you'll get a little more noise from the diff, especially if you have a Torsen, and move on...
 
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Diff bushings don't add much NVH if you don't do any Steeda or BMR subframe mounting point bracing (like the CB005 or the bushing inserts). If you do, you'll get some to a lot depending on which ones you go with. I have aluminum and full Steeda rear end and it's not bad at all, actually. I thought it'd be a lot worse. Just accept you'll get a little more noise from the diff, especially if you have a Torsen, and move on...
The export market is a Torsen-free zone, but thanks for the info :thumbsup:
 

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The export market is a Torsen-free zone, but thanks for the info :thumbsup:
Other than the Torsen being fully mechanical, consider yourself lucky. I have yet to come across a real situation where the regular diff contributes to a car being any slower around a road course or a drag strip. Not to mention I've gotten stuck when the car tripods going up a steep hill one wheel first (like into a parking garage) - the greatest weakness of the Torsen. Why it doesn't just send power to the other wheel baffles me. Weird design.
 

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Other than the Torsen being fully mechanical, consider yourself lucky. I have yet to come across a real situation where the regular diff contributes to a car being any slower around a road course or a drag strip. Not to mention I've gotten stuck when the car tripods going up a steep hill one wheel first (like into a parking garage) - the greatest weakness of the Torsen. Why it doesn't just send power to the other wheel baffles me. Weird design.
rip it out replace with quaife atb miles better :)
 

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Kinda meant the full Steeda instead of CB005/inserts (mostly due to save having to order from the US/shipping/taxes).
Think Gibbo said the diff bushings caused nvh so wasn't going to bother with that?
bmr kit is alot better than the steeda kit as its fixed mounting points gibbo will be along shortly to explain properly :)
 

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Hi [MENTION=14613]SteveS[/MENTION] thats our basic IRS pack, what I would recommend as the bare minimum. To go "full pack" you would also need to add the Steeda IRS Subframe braces. These make the Steeda kit a much more comprehensive solution than the BMR kit we believe.

IRS FULL PACK - Package in the online shop:
https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-full-pack-c2x23035545

The advantage of the BMR kit is it does a little of everything, and therefore is a cheaper option, but the Steeda kit goes further.

You can read more about the IRS subframe braces here:
https://www.steeda.co.uk/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-support-braces-c2x16661264

Scott in our factory told me he thinks the IRS brace is one of the best changes you can do.

steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-FULL-PACK.jpg
 
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rip it out replace with quaife atb miles better :)
Is the quaife really a better option? I have always thought they also become an open diff if one wheel is lifted?

Neither are actually an LSD, they both just bias torque.
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