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Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

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Edwin

Edwin

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I got my sub installed this week. The write-up was very helpful. Here is a pic of the sub part-way through the install:


Some install notes:
I just noticed that OP cut a lot of the wire shroud off where as I only exposed a 4" section; this made splicing the input wires from the rear speakers to the sub very difficult.
I used "4 gauge" (apparently from reviews, it is more like 8 gauge) wire from the battery to the amp. For the 150W RMS JBL, I probably could have used a smaller gauge wire.
The JBL has an auto remote on feature so I didn't have to connect a switched 12V source.

I've haven't been able to play with the adjustments for more than a few minutes, but I'm happy with the mod so far. As I was dialling it in, I did get some "thumping" bass, so I don't think bass roll-off is a problem. I'm not an audiophile though and I haven't got it to where I want it. The sub has a remote level adjuster which would probably help, but I haven't install it yet.
Nicely done! Good notes. And yeah, pulling back more of that wrap will make things much easier.
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ied0135

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OK I got my amp wired in by a shop and was definitely getting all of that bass distortion. It's been driving me nuts. So you're saying the headliner literally just pulls off with no tools because of the magnets and I can pull the wire on that box? Can you give me anymore details on pulling it down?

Then I will have a little less motor sound in my cabin, but it isn't that noticeable and that low drawn out bass noise goes away? If this is the case then wow, that's awesome. I will be doing this ASAP. I have the ecoboost premium so I'm assuming this is still the case for this part of an install?
 
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OK I got my amp wired in by a shop and was definitely getting all of that bass distortion. It's been driving me nuts. So you're saying the headliner literally just pulls off with no tools because of the magnets and I can pull the wire on that box? Can you give me anymore details on pulling it down?

Then I will have a little less motor sound in my cabin, but it isn't that noticeable and that low drawn out bass noise goes away? If this is the case then wow, that's awesome. I will be doing this ASAP. I have the ecoboost premium so I'm assuming this is still the case for this part of an install?
Once you get back there you will see how easy it is to pull the liner down. There is one magnet on each side so pull down from there. It should eliminate that excessive noise once unplugged.
 

ssj92

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The rockford doesn't fit in the right side of the trunk, where the factory sub would be?
 
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It might but I never checked. I didn't want it there because I golf a lot and dont have a lot of room for clubs to squeeze in horizontally as is. I had a sub mounted in that well in my last car and just didn't like it there.
 

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Excellent write up. Before this I didn't feel comfortable enough to do an install like this. But you answered a lot of questions and now I feel confident. Thanks!
 

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Edwin, why did you wire a separate remote turn on? I installed the same P300-10 with the same line out convertor and set it to turn on automatically when it senses a signal from the speaker. It works fine.
 
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Edwin, why did you wire a separate remote turn on? I installed the same P300-10 with the same line out convertor and set it to turn on automatically when it senses a signal from the speaker. It works fine.
I went ahead and added the remote wire because I wasn't sure how well the audio sense function would work and because there was a conveniently located remote wire in the harness containing all of the speaker wires. If it's working for you though then it's one less step people have to worry about. :cheers:
 

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Hi Edwin, I am new to car audio and a total novice. I'm thinking about wiring the sub I just bought (the same one Crowder bought) myself. I'm having trouble finding the grommet you went through on the driver's side. Can you help me locate it? Thanks in advance
 
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Hi Edwin, I am new to car audio and a total novice. I'm thinking about wiring the sub I just bought (the same one Crowder bought) myself. I'm having trouble finding the grommet you went through on the driver's side. Can you help me locate it? Thanks in advance
I highly recommend going through the passenger side grommet. There is information out there on how to do it but essentially you go through the grommet located under the glove box. It enters into the right tire well. You can either remove the front right tire or attempt to cut the wheel far enough to remove the wheel well cover. Once you have the power wire into the wheel well you can route it straight up through another hole that leads into the engine bay. It will be a lot easier than what I did. I only went through the drivers side because I was installing mine almost a year ago and there wasn't a lot of information out there on how to gain access through the firewall.


The drivers side grommet is located down and to the left of the steering column from inside the vehicle. You can barely see the other side of the grommet from the engine bay. It is located straight down from the brake fluid reservoir and is covered by a metal enclosure. In order to get your power wire through this grommet you will have to make a hole in the grommet from the drivers side, tape your power wire to something rigid like a clothes hanger, and very patiently manipulate the wire through the grommet, out of the metal enclosure, and into the engine bay where you can then pull the wire straight up.


I'll attempt to take some pics tomorrow of where both of these grommets are located in case anyone else is wondering the same thing.
 

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sruss5

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I highly recommend going through the passenger side grommet. There is information out there on how to do it but essentially you go through the grommet located under the glove box. It enters into the right tire well. You can either remove the front right tire or attempt to cut the wheel far enough to remove the wheel well cover. Once you have the power wire into the wheel well you can route it straight up through another hole that leads into the engine bay. It will be a lot easier than what I did. I only went through the drivers side because I was installing mine almost a year ago and there wasn't a lot of information out there on how to gain access through the firewall.


The drivers side grommet is located down and to the left of the steering column from inside the vehicle. You can barely see the other side of the grommet from the engine bay. It is located straight down from the brake fluid reservoir and is covered by a metal enclosure. In order to get your power wire through this grommet you will have to make a hole in the grommet from the drivers side, tape your power wire to something rigid like a clothes hanger, and very patiently manipulate the wire through the grommet, out of the metal enclosure, and into the engine bay where you can then pull the wire straight up.


I'll attempt to take some pics tomorrow of where both of these grommets are located in case anyone else is wondering the same thing.


Edwin, thank you this is awesome information!:cheers:
 

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I have an alpine type s 10" DVC in a sealed box powered by an Alpine MRV-M500 amp pushing 500w @ 2ohms using the speaker-level splicing, also have the RUX-KNOB installed inside my center console, glad I got it, too. The stock system rolls off the bass at high volumes and having the ability to turn up the gain on my amp remotely is really nice.
 

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Hi great post and info. So the passenger side wheel well is the way to go to run the live wire for your amp you are saying. Does the wheel have to come off?
 

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Thanks for this thread, I was able to install my sub and amp last night. I went through the grommet on the passengers side. I was able to do it without taking the wheel off but I regret this now. It took a lot longer than I expected, I was also doing it with flash/spotlights in the dark so that doesn't help lol I'd recommend taking the wheel off, it would make things a lot easier. Best of luck Trawn.
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