Adding some compliance & softness back in

[Rebellion]

So, the conclusion is that CB005 doesn't go well with the Steeda inserts...but there ain't no way I'm removing my CB005

How about the new BMR inserts, would they also clunk when used with the CB005?

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[Gibbo205]

Yeah and you probably would have had those same benefits from adding the Steeda Subframe Bushing Support System instead of adding the CB005. Like I said, the parts are engineered to work together.

And I'm done. I don't want to interrupt the fan club.

Who knows CB005 was my choice as it effectively does the job of three seperate steeda parts for a lot less money.

Shall see how car feels after fresh tyres, if still a touch harsh will give PP dampers a try on the rear.

 

[jabrax]

Who knows CB005 was my choice as it effectively does the job of three seperate steeda parts for a lot less money.

Shall see how car feels after fresh tyres, if still a touch harsh will give PP dampers a try on the rear.

Hey Gibbo, do you have a thicker sway bar? I have an adjustable sway bar that was set to the middle of 3 settings. The rear was brutal on public streets. On a whim, I adjusted the bar to softest of the 3 and wow, what a difference. I'm still a little harsh, but I can imagine what a difference it would be to street manners going back to the stock sway bar. I track the car, so that ain't happening.

Currently, running the frpp shocks with steeda progressives... going to try adjustable shocks next with either the progressive or linear

 

[Gibbo205]

Hey Gibbo, do you have a thicker sway bar? I have an adjustable sway bar that was set to the middle of 3 settings. The rear was brutal on public streets. On a whim, I adjusted the bar to softest of the 3 and wow, what a difference. I'm still a little harsh, but I can imagine what a difference it would be to street manners going back to the stock sway bar. I track the car, so that ain't happening.

Currently, running the frpp shocks with steeda progressives... going to try adjustable shocks next with either the progressive or linear

I have FRPP bars, but I installed them after the FRPP dampers and Steeda ultralite linear springs, they were installed on softest and their impact on ride quality really was minimal. Going from PP dampers and PP springs to FRPP dampers and ultralite springs fixed bounce but low speed ride did become more firm, high speed ride however improved in ride quality.

On stock PP wheel/tire all was OK. But the 20" lighter wheel and lower 35 profile tire has made things harsher, but the tyres could be an issue being old. New tyres tomorrow see how that effect things.

 

[FlyBy]

So, the conclusion is that CB005 doesn't go well with the Steeda inserts...but there ain't no way I'm removing my CB005

How about the new BMR inserts, would they also clunk when used with the CB005?

Yes, my car clunks with the BMR BK051 inserts and CB005. I'm keeping them on for now though and will see how it goes.

Gibbo, really appreciate your posts!

 

[Bluemustang]

Hey Gibbo, do you have a thicker sway bar? I have an adjustable sway bar that was set to the middle of 3 settings. The rear was brutal on public streets. On a whim, I adjusted the bar to softest of the 3 and wow, what a difference. I'm still a little harsh, but I can imagine what a difference it would be to street manners going back to the stock sway bar. I track the car, so that ain't happening.

Currently, running the frpp shocks with steeda progressives... going to try adjustable shocks next with either the progressive or linear

I'm on FRPP shocks w FRPP track springs (progressives) with BMR bars, BMR CB005, BMR toe rods, FRPP toe knuckle bearing, FRPP strut bar and K brace, Steeda LCA bearing, and Steeda diff inserts - and I can say - I initially had the BMR bars on the middle setting and recently I switched them back to soft front and rear and it did make a difference in the compliance area.

Bars on full soft it is less harsh when hitting bumps, especially bumps that only affect one side of the car.

The car is still very stiff and the LCA bearing definitely added some harshness to the ride quality but it's still not bad. Not having the sway bars too tight helps a bit and especially having stiff shocks and springs, I think you need to back off the sway bar rate. Otherwise you're going too far towards a solid axle feeling.

This is as stiff as I'd ever want it to be and may be a bit overkill. But overall livable around town and at high speeds it is planted and ride quality is just fine.

 

[Gibbo205]

Hi there


Little update, the diff inserts transformed the NVH and made the gear changes and driveline completely clunk / thud free, very happy about that.

Now I am on PS4S all round and the car is a lot more compliant and NVH is vastly reduced, these are such quiet tyres.

Now my only complaint is in the wet under power the rear-end is easily upset by bumps in the road which makes me think the rear dampers are too aggressive, would others here agree with this assessment?

Would switching back to PP dampers in just the rear help with wet grip on bumpier roads?

 

[Burkey]

Hi there


Little update, the diff inserts transformed the NVH and made the gear changes and driveline completely clunk / thud free, very happy about that.

Now I am on PS4S all round and the car is a lot more compliant and NVH is vastly reduced, these are such quiet tyres.

Now my only complaint is in the wet under power the rear-end is easily upset by bumps in the road which makes me think the rear dampers are too aggressive, would others here agree with this assessment?

Would switching back to PP dampers in just the rear help with wet grip on bumpier roads?

I did exactly the same thing Gibbo, pissed the diff inserts off, all clunks and thuds are gone.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Now my only complaint is in the wet under power the rear-end is easily upset by bumps in the road which makes me think the rear dampers are too aggressive, would others here agree with this assessment?

I wouldn't be surprised.

Would switching back to PP dampers in just the rear help with wet grip on bumpier roads?

Why not Koni yellows?


Norm

 

[BmacIL]

Hi there


Little update, the diff inserts transformed the NVH and made the gear changes and driveline completely clunk / thud free, very happy about that.

Now I am on PS4S all round and the car is a lot more compliant and NVH is vastly reduced, these are such quiet tyres.

Now my only complaint is in the wet under power the rear-end is easily upset by bumps in the road which makes me think the rear dampers are too aggressive, would others here agree with this assessment?

Would switching back to PP dampers in just the rear help with wet grip on bumpier roads?

It's quite possibly the dampers. Is the unsettled feeling at initial impact at the rear or when it's attempting to settle? If your rebound force is too high it will prevent the tire from maintaining contact with the road. Is your new wheel and tire setup lighter or heavier? Considering changing rear shocks is very easy, might be worth a try, although I'm with Norm in that an adjustable would be better, particularly because the rear is quite sensitive, much more so than the front.

Could be too stiff a rear bar setting too, but less likely.

 

[Gibbo205]

It's quite possibly the dampers. Is the unsettled feeling at initial impact at the rear or when it's attempting to settle? If your rebound force is too high it will prevent the tire from maintaining contact with the road. Is your new wheel and tire setup lighter or heavier? Considering changing rear shocks is very easy, might be worth a try, although I'm with Norm in that an adjustable would be better, particularly because the rear is quite sensitive, much more so than the front.

Could be too stiff a rear bar setting too, but less likely.

Yes the new wheel/tyre combo has the rear-end coming unstuck more easily in the wet under power. My rear FRPP bar is and always being set to softest, the issue is now more highlighted since moving to the 20" wheels and 295/35/20 over the PP 275/40/19 tyre. The new wheel/tyre combo is about 10lbs lighter per corner compared to stock, so bigger but weighs less.

So hit a bump in the wet whilst on the power and she gets rather sideways as the bump causes the rear to lose traction, so the bump is unsettling the car and seemingly causing the wheel to lose traction on the ground.

I obviously have PP dampers in my garage, so trying them is zero cost if people think it could help?

Obviously trying something else cost money as I would need to buy such items.


P.S. I am running steeda ultralite linear springs.

 

[jbailer]

I would definitely try the dampers, nothing to lose and they are so quick and easy to swap out.

 

[Gibbo205]

I would definitely try the dampers, nothing to lose and they are so quick and easy to swap out.

OK if people feel they could work I will, just hope the floaty rear-end does not come back.

 

[jbailer]

OK if people feel they could work I will, just hope the floaty rear-end does not come back.

If it does, it's only about 20 minutes a side to swap back. Then I'd consider the Steeda Pro-Action adjustables. Everybody's taste is a little bit different, the adjustables offer the opportunity to get it where you want it rather than the pre-determined damping. While you're in there, might want to consider the Steeda shock mounts, I'm sure you've seen me mention them in other threads. I was shocked by the added benefit with them.

 

[Gibbo205]

If it does, it's only about 20 minutes a side to swap back. Then I'd consider the Steeda Pro-Action adjustables. Everybody's taste is a little bit different, the adjustables offer the opportunity to get it where you want it rather than the pre-determined damping. While you're in there, might want to consider the Steeda shock mounts, I'm sure you've seen me mention them in other threads. I was shocked by the added benefit with them.

What was the benefit of the mounts as i fail to see how the mount could impact anything apart from being stronger and less chance of breaking of course.

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