2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[Grimmer]

I've followed this thread for a long time but there are a few things that are still not clear to me since I have the 6 speed Auto on my 17GT Premium. Currently I like how I can change the stock settings from Normal to Sport, Track, etc. These settings do make a noticeable difference, and then I can go back to Normal for everyday driving.

1) How does PP1 or PP2 change my stock "Normal" setting driving experience with the Auto?
2) How does PP1 or PP2 change my "Sport" setting driving experience with the Auto?
3) With PP1 of PP2 is there any difference between my "Normal" and "Sport" settings like there was with the stock tune?

I cannot answer specifically for any shift point changes that may or may not be included in the auto's tune. But in general, the factory tune was rolled back a bit, especially in the low rpm range, to accommodate the use of lower octane fuel. One of the biggest improvements in the PP1 & 2 tunes is canceling out some of that rollback and allowing the timing and cams to be more aggressive. This comes at the cost of requiring the use of 91+ octane fuel. Low end response is greatly improved on the PP1 & PP2 tunes. I opted for the PP2 tune because making a filter "high flow" without increasing the size or surface area of the filter element, usually means letting more crap pass through it. The PP2 includes a larger filter, larger intake pipe, and a larger throttle body.

It was my understanding that the drive modes (at least for the M6) did not actually alter the engine performance parameters. For the most part the drive modes altered the power steering feel, the amount of computer compensation/correction between your throttle inputs and the throttle body's actual response, and the tolerance and correction parameters for the AdvanceTrak and Traction Control. Most likely, the drive modes on the Auto's also included modification of the shift points. From what I've seen in my car, none of that has changed...just the underlying engine control calibration. So basically it behaves the same in all drive modes after the PP2 as it did before, but the entire system has noticeable bump up across the board with an even bigger bump up in the low rpm range.

Not sure if any of that helps... Someone with real world before and after experience on the Auto will have to chime in.

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[hlh1]

Thanks Grimmer, this helps. If I can still enjoy the ability to select the drive modes per my driving situation, I'm thinking the PP2 is the way to go. I can get 93 octane here in VA with 10% ethanol.

I'd love to here someones experience with the 6 speed auto and PP1 and PP2.

 

[Grimmer]

I don't think the 2-3 shift thing has anything to do with NLS.

I agree. The symptoms are matching up to the NLS less and less.

I wonder if the shifter alignment is adjustable... I'll have to look it up.

I checked the service manual. There is no mention or procedure for adjusting the gear shifter when servicing or installing. The gear shifter does not appear to have provisions for adjustment (just a bolt and a bushing - maybe these are loose?). Also, it appears that the gear shifter is pretty much mounted and braced to the transmission so torque roll shouldn't be a problem.

The shift "issues" (or perhaps just "quirks") are not much more than minor inconveniences for me since I don't do any serious racing with that car. So long as they don't lead to premature failure, I can accept them as normal "character"...

I highly recommend the PP2 to anyone considering it. I ordered my kit from Levittown Ford and had a local ASE Certified shop install it (for warranty coverage - if that isn't a concern for you, the install is pretty easy). Total cost was around $850. Huge bang for the buck and makes the car a lot more fun to drive. Even without the noticeable power increase, the drivability and smoothing out of the power curve was worth the cost (assuming that you are willing to run only 91+).

 

[Grimmer]

I do believe I have gotten one that wasn't built on a Monday or Friday.

The ID tag on the right side of the tranny will give you the date and time that it was built...

 

[accel]

Several things keep me from getting pp2:

- risk of undesired nls. I might like it, but if not - i should be able to disable it.

- air filter against hood clearance and heat extractor - the thing looks like afterthought. I believe they should provide some airbox cover that will prevent underhood heat from getting in, as well as let heat extractor work as before.

The last one could be fixed by covering air filter with some heat insulation material one could find at internet.

 

[Meatball]

Several things keep me from getting pp2:

- risk of undesired nls. I might like it, but if not - i should be able to disable it.

- air filter against hood clearance and heat extractor - the thing looks like afterthought. I believe they should provide some airbox cover that will prevent underhood heat from getting in, as well as let heat extractor work as before.

The last one could be fixed by covering air filter with some heat insulation material one could find at internet.

NLS is a minor annoyance but hardly counters the benefits of PP2, esp for the price. I don’t have PP2 but from what I’ve read it’s like getting an upgraded car (like a 2018 GT almost?) for <$1K. I have that intake setup and it’s true that your IAT rises quite a bit from stock but once you’re moving it goes right down. In my experience it’s a non-issue in most circumstances.

It is true however that your air filter will get a little moist on one spot when the car is parked and it’s raining. But never soaked. I just put a little bar counter pad over it when I’m parked and expect rain and the problem is solved. By the way, this is rarely mentioned but the filter breathes through that hole to an extent with PP2 or 3. The vent is about 2/3 over the air box and after driving it’s much cooler over it than the other vent. A nice little plus.

The only negatives about PP2, in my opinion, are the requirement of 91+ and those 2 years / 24K miles where powertrain problems directly related to the pack are not warrantied.

By the way , Braski has or had PP2 and seems to drag it a lot and doesn’t complain about NLS tho he doesn’t use it...I think...

 

[fewt]

That's the first mention of clutch spring being a possible cause of the post-shift stutter ! I have the Steeda spring, maybe I should swap it out?

HI I'VE HEARD REFERENCES TO THE STEEDA SPRING. I KNOW WITH NO SPRING, THERE CAN BE AN ISSUE WITH PEDAL RETURN. SOME PEOPLE DID MENTION THE SAME ISSUE WITH THE LIGHTER SPRING BUT..? I HAVE THE SPRING WHICH I LIKE. I CHECKED RETURN AGAINST FACTORY, NO PROBLEM. I AM PLANNING TO INSTALL PERF PACK AND DO NOT WANT A PROB WITH NO-LIFT SHIFT. I HAVE FACTORY IN CASE...THANKS DMAN

I've had the Steeda clutch spring longer than I've had PP2, and I've never had any trouble with NLS.

 

[Grimmer]

- air filter against hood clearance and heat extractor - the thing looks like afterthought. I believe they should provide some airbox cover that will prevent underhood heat from getting in, as well as let heat extractor work as before.

The airbox and filter for the PP2 is the same airbox and filter supplied on the GT350.

I have that intake setup and it’s true that your IAT rises quite a bit from stock but once you’re moving it goes right down. In my experience it’s a non-issue in most circumstances.

I have found that the IAT is about 10 to 12 °F above ambient when the car is moving. It will go up quite a bit while at a stand still in the summer heat. But as Meatball said, it drops right back down to ambient +10 once you start moving again.

It is true however that your air filter will get a little moist on one spot when the car is parked and it’s raining. But never soaked...

There has been much discussion about water getting onto the PP2 filter element from rain or washing. Generally speaking, I've found that the insulating pad on the underside of the hood prevents nearly all moisture from getting onto the filter. Many, including myself, have simply added a K&N pre-charger cover to the filter for a little added water resistance. See pictures and part # here.

My car is garaged, but I wash it quite often and don't give a second thought to spraying water directly on the driver's side hood vent. I have not seen any signs of wetness on the filter past or present. The only time I've bothered to cover up the filter is when I am spraying water in the engine compartment directly. Sometimes I get lazy and don't even bother to cover the air filter when "water dusting" the engine compartment. I just take care to direct the spray away from the airbox.

 

[Meatball]

The airbox and filter for the PP2 is the same airbox and filter supplied on the GT350.



I have found that the IAT is about 10 to 12 °F above ambient when the car is moving. It will go up quite a bit while at a stand still in the summer heat. But as Meatball said, it drops right back down to ambient +10 once you start moving again.



There has been much discussion about water getting onto the PP2 filter element from rain or washing. Generally speaking, I've found that the insulating pad on the underside of the hood prevents nearly all moisture from getting onto the filter. Many, including myself, have simply added a K&N pre-charger cover to the filter for a little added water resistance. See pictures and part # here.

My car is garaged, but I wash it quite often and don't give a second thought to spraying water directly on the driver's side hood vent. I have not seen any signs of wetness on the filter past or present. The only time I've bothered to cover up the filter is when I am spraying water in the engine compartment directly. Sometimes I get lazy and don't even bother to cover the air filter when "water dusting" the engine compartment. I just take care to direct the spray away from the airbox.

I found that the worst it got under torrential rain was only a little moist in the upper drivers side of the filter. But I don’t want to block it off yet...I think it draws a little air from that vent. If you put your hand over the vent after driving it’s far cooler than the passenger side vent, so it’s probably substantially over the air bucket. But I don’t think it’s a huge effect.

I noticed that a 2019 Bullitt has the drivers side vent blocked off completely if memory serves. But the 18+ vent design is different than the 15-17. I think I remember that the rubber seals are a little taller than on ours; GT350 too tho it’s supposed to be exactly the same. But I may not be remembering that right, and I know, the Bullitt and GT350 have different hood designs than 15-17 so sealing may be different.

 

[accel]

The airbox and filter for the PP2 is the same airbox and filter supplied on the GT350.

Correct. And GT350's hood is lower. Someone mentioned GT has a gap bwteen the arrbox and and a hood because of that. I do not know how true this is as I do not have pp.

 

[dman]

Hmmm, then either the stumble was too brief or it wasn't related to the NLS, because the rpm did not drop that I noticed... Maybe it didn't have enough time to react.

I've also wondered about those times when it won't go into 3rd. At least once, a little more force resulted in it going into 1st gear. To the extent that I've questioned the alignment of my shifter relative to the transmission gears. But maybe under high load the transmission is torqued just enough to make the shifter more aligned with 1st than 3rd.

I wonder if the shifter alignment is adjustable... I'll have to look it up.

Shifting into 3rd on my car has always been the roughest (especially from 2nd). Usually resulting in a little crunch. Almost like the syncros line up but then deviate just a tiny bit before the gears can actually mesh. Or maybe that synchro just doesn't quite get it there in the first place. The other gears shift just fine.

a lot of the 2-3 shifting problems have to do with the shifter mounting bracket. basically a cheap pressed metal u-bracket, wrapped around a rubber cushion and tied on with zip ties. Ford in 2017 supposedly did away with the squishy rubber and installed what looks like the poly mount sold by Steeda. I'm not sure about that but have seen a post showing a Ford part similar to the Steeda, who has always worked with Ford. I would recommend the Steeda mount as a good install for the money. I actually prefer the Barton mount...more money but spot on shifts. Barton manufactured the Ford racing mounts, had one on my '14 gt track pack...loved it. also ran one on a '15 track car. you know your in gear...
not sure this info covers all the variables but absolute improvements over factory dman
https://www.americanmuscle.com/barton-two-post-shifter-bracket-1516.html

 

[phatsesh]

My understanding is that the NLS engages between 80% and WOT. I occasionally get the third gear stutter but it’s usually if I’m accelerating somewhat hard and forget to use the NLS and take my foot off the gas pedal a little bit during the gear shift. I have never gotten the stutter while intentionally using the NLS. I like the NLS because it seems to hold acceleration through the shift where when you let up on the throttle during shifting and you can fill a break in the acceleration

 

[2morrow]

DID FORD COME UP WITH UPDATED PACKS? HAVE SEEN VERSION 2.0 MENTIONED...ABOUT TO BUY IN AND WOULD LKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS A NEW VERSION OF THE PP1 TUNE. THANKS DMAN

Hey just saw this, been super busy lately.

I called FP and asked for the V.2 tune after creating the poll and pleading our case. It was a dramatic increase in drivability as well as resolving the rev hang.

However, since then I've upgraded to a Palm Beach Dyno tune (among many other mods) and I have to say that it's an even greater upgrade. Waaay more power and since I kept OEM parts drivability in like stock

 

[Mr. Met]

Correct. And GT350's hood is lower. Someone mentioned GT has a gap bwteen the arrbox and and a hood because of that. I do not know how true this is as I do not have pp.

There is a rubber seal around the top. When I open the hood it seem to be bent over and sort of slowly springs back, so it must be up against something. I do have my hood stop almost as low as it goes though, so that might help.

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[Grimmer]

a lot of the 2-3 shifting problems have to do with the shifter mounting bracket. basically a cheap pressed metal u-bracket, wrapped around a rubber cushion and tied on with zip ties. Ford in 2017 supposedly did away with the squishy rubber and installed what looks like the poly mount sold by Steeda. I'm not sure about that but have seen a post showing a Ford part similar to the Steeda, who has always worked with Ford. I would recommend the Steeda mount as a good install for the money. I actually prefer the Barton mount...more money but spot on shifts. Barton manufactured the Ford racing mounts, had one on my '14 gt track pack...loved it. also ran one on a '15 track car. you know your in gear...
not sure this info covers all the variables but absolute improvements over factory dman
https://www.americanmuscle.com/barton-two-post-shifter-bracket-1516.html

I'm all over this, thanks for the tip. The steed one is on sale for $64 and the Barton is $129 (haven't shopped around yet). Any chance you've tried both? What is the benefit of the Barton over the Steeda? Do you get any extra noise/vibrations with the extra solid nature of the Barton?

The Steeda still incorporates a poly core with a little give. Maybe even that much give is still too much...?

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