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Let me know if you have any questions on the install.

New in the box. The kit is setup for Whipple, but can be converted to other setups with a few hoses or fittings. Upgrades include dual walboro 267 pumps, large large stainless filter and “the box” fuel pump controller. $1600 for fuel system, $2400 with new in the box ID1050 injectors.

I know they will sell it as an add on to their lower hp pumps that don’t typically come with it, but not sure about selling it by itself.

I'm going to go with no. There is a lot going on at the tank end of the OEM fuel line and it's just too much to snake up there. There are also some plastic clips securing the line that you won't be able to access with the tank in. I will also say that reinstalling the tank is a lot less fun...

I’ll get back to you on that once I have the tank back in. I didn’t really think about looking before removing it. I think your chances are much greater if you’re willing to destroy the stock line(and it will make your life significantly easier). The GT500 being two pieces will go back in...

I had to drop the tank for the dual pump module setup. Surprisingly, after the exhaust and driveshaft were out of the way, dropping the tank was really pretty easy.

Finally got my stock line removed this morning and will be installing the KPM 1/2” line. It definitely would have been easier to run PTFE hose and leave the stock in place. Removing the lines is not a fun job, especially with bottom mount turbos. Its hard to appreciate the size difference...

Apples and oranges to the Coyote. There is no way to advance or retard a properly timed VCT motor without deleting the VCT.

Care to elaborate on this? How could the OEM setup possibly be "set advanced" without being a tooth off?

Those voltages are normal with Ford smart charging. The alternator is essentially shut off when not needed to increase fuel economy. If they never did that before, something was wrong and the update fixed it. The lithiums seem to struggle, especially on the higher optioned cars with more...

@StangTime - out of curiosity, what did you end up doing with this. I installed the BMR, but have been reconsidering that decision before the car is completely back together. I have a low tolerance for NVH, so based on all the complaints it sounds like I’m going to be miserable.

The spec in my WSM is 22-34 lb-in which is actually higher than most diffs I’ve done.

You’re right, I’m wrong. I’ll leave the diff work to experts like yourself and I’ll just stick to the simple things like oil changes.

They do not give you a spec to do that, but they do tell you how to measure the spec needed to do it.

Normally you would be correct, but in this case…. See the Ford supplied instructions posted above.

Definitely still easier to swap the assembly. You have to remove and replace the assembly either way. The pinion does not have to come out if only replacing the carrier(tracklok or torsen).

You will need several other tools, including a dial indicator to build it. Just swapping to a torsen with the same ring and pinion isn't a horrible job. Replacing the pinion is where it gets significantly more difficult.

Replacing the flange really isn't that bad. You could probably do it in the car and it won't take that much torque. The only special tool you will need is an in/lb torque wrench. The massive amount of torque is only required to cruch the crush sleeve when doing a new pinion.

That's rotational torque, which is the proper method. That number is typically in the range of 20-30 in/lbs

While 300ft/lbs is probably close, there is not a torque spec for the pinion. I honestly would guess it's higher. We definitely had a near death experience torqueing mine, which is complicated by the fact that you can't do it mounted to the car.