They will work on their own but yeah having all the close out panels will be better as you will effectively create a flat floor design. What all of this does is sucking the car to the road creating more downforce and in that way increasing grip mostly cornering. It was obvious from the first...
Do anyone has info on right height for the GT350/R I though this cars are lower than a stock GT PP1 ? If not does that mean that the GT350/R springs are same height as PP1 ?
I have the blessing of driving a 718 GTS 4.0 on track it's super fun and very capable car I can say it drives better than the Mustang however the owner drove the Mustang for 2 sessions and he enjoyed it more also the lap time difference was less than 1 second in favour of the Cayman. But still...
the arm itself nit to be cut to make the hole for the spring perch round. It's not a big deal and it doesn't affect the RLCA at all but it's just something to have in mind.
I currently run -13/-15 clicks front/rear from full stiff and it works good though still a bit of bouncing over bumps but car is very easy to control. Have in mind that if your car is like 2017th the rear springs will not fit without a bit of modding on the Rear lower control arms. My coilovers...
There are 2 kits on the market both can fit a GT:
1. For base cars there is Performance Pack kit with the 6 piston 380 mm front disks (M-2300-V) .
2. The kit that OP bought is for a GT350 to upgrade GT350 brakes to the GT350R spec this are bigger than GT PP1 brakes but specific to GT350...
the alignment dowels + support bushes or a BMR kit for me is a must do not only it really locked out the IRS from movement but helped with 0.5 sec lap times improvement. I did that as only IRS mod and it did added NVH mostly over bumps as it communicates the road imperfections more through the...
The holes are too big when you transition the car you can feel how the subframe moves in the space around the bolts the dowels effectively don't allow the subframe to move when transitioning like in a left/right S type of corner. In other words the dowels help a lot with weight transfer side to...
What worked for me is: IRS Base Pack + FP Toe Link Bearing this made an insane difference in how the rear of the car is feeling. The IRS Base Pack (Alignment) helped the car during transitions left/right and the FP Toe Link bearing helped with car putting power down out of corners. Minimal NVH...
Yeah the cheap Shell gas is not good here ether prefer other stations if going bellow the 100 RON of the V-Power but when it comes to performance V-Power every day and 2 times on Saturday ;)
The FP350s Owners Manual suggest 6-8 hours of track use or every 2 events. This is very aggressive though for a street car so I guess ones a year or ones every 2 years should be fine. I think for 6 years of tracking I only did the change of plugs ones 2 years ago. Will probably change them...
Bro stock M3/M4 runs 1:05.2 on OEM PS4s's vs my 1:06.39 all time best and 1:06.8 average lap times on TW100 305 tires. Stock M3/M4 is faster than a Modded Mustang. Stock Mach 1 A10 only goes 1:10.7 ideal conditions probably 1:09 vs 1:05 the G80's are real sport cars not a GT.
The Mustang is not...
Yeah way we have 2 of them doing 1:03.4 at my local track while I can only do 1:06 something with a car that has Power Pack 3, Ohlins, Apex wheels and a lot more and is faster than M1's by a lot. The BMW's are in the same class as me and on the same tires as me and are on the stock suspension...
It can take that without a tune I run (100 RON) Shell V-Power Racing in my end of the woods which is essentially 98 RON+some additives but is doing it's job never had an engine light come on. Overall no matter how expensive the V-Power Racing it's cheaper than a new engine.
Bro even an F87 is much much faster car than a Mustang at least an N/A car. Your rich ass don't understand that there is a huge difference between a turbo powered car especially an BMW turbo powered car and an N/A 5.0 boat that is our beloved Mustang.
I got my ass kicked a lot from BMW's on my...
You said the car sitting for like 6 months did you have fresh or old oil when you take it to the track ? Spark Plugs I personally change ones every 2 years or less than that.
I don't think your CHT is the issue here maybe the motor had missfire or was run with old oil or even without some oil...
Yeah if you are tuned sure 12:1 should be better. I was looking into Aluminator mostly because better components and with 11:1 I wouldn't need to get rid of the FP3 tune (not that this is a big deal ) and you are doing cams as well. Also if doing cams consider doing stiffer valve springs.