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It’s nice to see you guys finally getting around to putting the wheel on the correct side of the car … :giggle: WD :like:

Washed it, drove it, fed it : I ran it down to 9 miles to get rid of the layup / winter tank, and it feels noticeably ‘better’ on the fresh fill. I’m not sure how V power ages but based on the drive home, I’m betting it’s not so great ? 186 range is top end of normal for me, and slightly...

OP mentioned three plugs - as in the drains on the edge ? :like: WD :like:

My standard (AE) system has drains in the rear mufflers, and they drip quite a bit until it’s fully warmed up. It looks like yours is dripping from the joint at the back of the X pipe. WD :like:

Why is that ? Is it just the heat shield issue ? I know Steeda shortened their X and H pipes when the facelift came along, but it was only done so you didn’t have to cut the little heat shields off (and those only came with the facelift). WD :like:

Off topic, but ‘Clearanced’ made me laugh. Can we not be honest and just say that someone’s smashed the crap out of them with a hammer ? For a moment, I thought I was back in work. When I write a customer facing report, I can’t say ‘fire’ as that’s a scary word, it has to be ‘thermal incident’...

DFB will likely have a better recommendation, but as a quick solution using something you may already have hanging around, I’ve had good success with baby wipes. If you’ve got that stuff (suncream) on your seats, be ‘very’ careful not to get it on your paint … WD :like:

Just check the specs - a well designed unit will keep the ‘maintenance’ voltage below gassing voltage. No gassing = no emissions = no corrosion. Most modern car batteries will also have quite intricate vent paths, so even if they gas a little before the charger hits maintenance mode, most of...

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/whats-this-disconnected-hose-for.201505/#post-4039042 :like: WD :like:

Without going comparing to mine - I think that might be what’s left or your sound tube :like: WD :like: Edit : Nice pussy … :like:

The ‘terminal grease’ in my photo is an old tin of noco :like: Any grease is better than nothing as it will still provide a barrier. The petroleum jelly that I mentioned is particularly good if used on new / clean surfaces and applied with full coverage. It’s been used for ‘years’ for...

I suspect (although there will always be exceptions in opinions), is that’s the difference is non active, and active exhaust cars. The rear mufflers have considerably different internal designs. WD :like:

For an easy to get hold of / over the counter type of product, I find the meguiars ultimate wheel cleaner to be quite good. Worst case is it doesn’t help, but at least it will do a good job of your wheels :like: WD :like:

As you mentioned rust deposits, I would be keen to use a iron removing / colour changing / extra nice smelling kind of wheel cleaner :like: WD :like:

Your inner tips may look different as they run much hotter (if you run with the valves open a lot, and drive it enthusiastically) - it's easy to see on the silver tips as its the inner ones that start to go to the 'straw' colour : I normally don't give recommendations on something I haven't...

Most (all ?) metal polishes have some mild abrasive action to them so I would be concerned about what that could do the to the black finish over time (note @Nightmonkey 's comment in post #16). Interesting that you should mention the outer tips ... Typically, the better / higher grade...

Terminal grease : Petroleum jelly is almost as good, and more likely that you have some hanging around :like: WD :like:

I can't argue either way for its effectiveness, but it doesn't replace the factory piece, it's in addition to it, and it extends the factory piece up to the front face of the grill :like: WD :like:

Sorry, I thought you was asking for you (21GT) :like: My photos above are for a 20GT :like: WD :like:

Page 1 : Its what I have on mine - currently in lime, but I'm going to black : It sits behind a slightly opened up grill : WD :like: