Search results

Yes, it resets with every key cycle. Crashes are the result of incompetent drivers 99% of the time - the assumption that traction control will or will not save you is a portion of that. Know your own driving limits, the limits of your car, and the limits of the environment you’re in.

Now 🙃. https://www.lethalperformance.com/boundary-engineering-black-oil-pump-gears-2011-2024-mustang-gt-2012-2013-boss-302-2015-2020-gt350-2015-2017-f-150-2020-gt500.html

Yup good point.

I'm annoyed that I actually put some velcro away this weekend after working on the car and didn't think of this.

If you care about NVH - and daily drive/aren't heavily modified - go with stock. If you intend on making more power down the line - don't care about some added NVH - go with aftermarket.

It was an MT-82 car - and among the first off the assembly line - the tune had absolutely nothing to do with it, nor did my driving/"beating the shit out of it". Every transmission was covered under warranty as there was a currently known problem with the forming of the shift forks and improper...

If TC is not fully disabled - no - they won't spin it will just bog down until TC senses it's fine and ramps back in the power. Turning TC completely off by holding the button for 10~ seconds, will enable you to do a burnout.

Depends on the dealership you intend to take it too for warranty work if its ever needed - My car was tuned at 18 miles - had a trans replaced at 5k miles...then again at 11k miles....and again at 22k miles. 2nd replacement it was "FBO" (Headers/Exhaust/CAI/Tune) 3rd replacement it had...

Well - if you're proficient in Forscan you can use that to see current strategies... If not then you'll need a compatible tuning device to read the current flash - you won't be able to tell if its on 93/E85 unless the tune is aptly named that - there isn't a parameter to set for you to see that.

No problem. - feel free to reach out to lethal if you haven’t decided where to buy and mention me - they’ll help you out 👍🏻

The Yukon are compatible

Yukon is your next best bet

4.10’s and you’ll be golden 👌🏻

NT555 RII - The G2's are great for the fronts - and decent summer tire but they won't hold your power. The RII's can handle Map 2 for me which is around 850-900 wheel & last 12-15k miles and drive exceptionally well in the rain.

You're going to want 4.09's. Also I'd recommend using the Tremec brand fluid - it makes warranty claims and stuff MUCH easier with them. I have a 2.97 - currently 3.73's and its extremely long, I can't imagine how long 3.55's would be - Swapping to 4.10's (I have an old OEM Ford set before...

not wrong at all - just my first hand experience. fingers crossed it’s something simple.

Likely your starter Is going bad - Just had this same exact set of symptoms on my daily (a Miata) - did this for around a month before I walked out to a no crank - replaced the starter and it was good as new. If it were a fuel pump issue then you'd not hear it prime at times. It could be a bad...

Gotchu. https://www.lethalperformance.com/shop-now/vehicle-selector/ford-mustang-v8-gt/2021-2023-mustang-gt/custom-tunes-2

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s550euros-taillight-v2-clear-lens-mustang-2015-2023-18taileuv2.html Problem solved :) Had 3 different sets of these Euros - 2 sets were destroyed in car accidents....the 3rd is going strong :D

was there testing out my new clutch…it’s coming back out too 🤣