GT350/R Engine Build Date codes

[svttim]

your Label decoded

2016 GT350R GR245 Engine Build date 3/31/2016
The Engine Design plan (Calibration Code) GA-555-AA
means that the engine design plan 2016 for a GT350R with no revisions.

this means the Motor is intended to be installed in a GT350R using the procedures outlined in the
GA-555-AA plan.

formation

This should be 3/30/16 if I am correct. Thanks for the info H6088, great information

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[GT350-H6088]

formation

This should be 3/30/16 if I am correct. Thanks for the info H6088, great information

Again you got me.. I was very tired..
Thanks for keeping me on my toes

 

[svttim]

Again you got me.. I was very tired..
Thanks for keeping me on my toes

LOL< no problem, its the retired Military coming out. And again, thank you!

 

[Bulldogs22]

I’m not offended lol.
To many people are hung up on this shit.
I had a 16 track pack that I didn’t break in and dynoed it with 11 miles on the odometer and red lined it all the time before it reached 1000 miles of break in and it never used any oil.
I changed the oil at 200 miles and from that day on used amsoil.
Keep the oil full, check it and enjoy.

Im starting to think with these engines driving it hard for the first few hundred miles coming near redline and letting it gradually come back down is better than babying it as it allows everything to set it may not be but what it seems like.

 

[AdamIsAdam]

My engine build decal was the one featured in the first post. I'll add to it the build date and chassis date, as well as the MSRP blend and build dates:

Engine Build Date: 18010 = Jan 10th, 2018.
Door Jam decal build date: 02/18
MSRP sticker: Blend date Feb 21, 2018
MSRP sticker: actual build date listed on bottom is Feb 13, 2018
Chassis J0953
Small sticker under coil cover has a possible date of "11-08-17". What's that mean? (see pics)

It was stated elsewhere and appears to be true, that the slight change in piston rings made around 1/1/18 may not have been large enough for them to change the engine designation.

Question: Ford docs show that MY18 cars were not being assembled in Dec and Jan, so why are there engine build dates in Jan? Do they make engines at Romeo even though car assembly was not starting up again until Feb?

 

[GT350-H6088]

2016 and 2020 will be slightly different calendar

Leap year can mess things up a bit.
Perpetual -2009, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2019 Leap years 2008, 2012, 2016, 2020

 

[zzrat]

JR369, A Friday build + engine known for oil consumption + the Voodoo black magic = ........ maybe you should consider selling it soon!LOL

 

[JR369]

JR369, A Friday build + engine known for oil consumption + the Voodoo black magic = ........ maybe you should consider selling it soon!LOL

At least it isn’t the last one of the day.

 

[Dominator961]

Im starting to think with these engines driving it hard for the first few hundred miles coming near redline and letting it gradually come back down is better than babying it as it allows everything to set it may not be but what it seems like.

Exactly.
Get it to operating temps
Drive it with respect but don’t be afraid to get on it.

 

[GT350-H6088]

Exactly.
Get it to operating temps
Drive it with respect but don’t be afraid to get on it.

I would like to add to what Dominator961 said, Do net let the engine sit at a an RPM long, very it up and down
no cruise control, no long idle. one guy on facebook said he accelerated up to 80 in 3rd then dropped back to 60
and he did that over and over again, seating the rings requires both pressure and vacuum.

Here is a good article on how to properly Seat Rings
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2018/05/how-to-break-in-your-piston-rings-the-right-way/

 

[Dominator961]

I put over 300 miles of dyno time on my first GT350 (16 track pack) before the car had 100 miles on the odometer.
Never used any oil.
Once the weather breaks I’ll be doing the same to my 18R.
I don’t believe in pussy footing break ins. I don’t abuse my cars but I do drive them and I pull red line pulls once the engine oil and coolant temps are at max operating temps.
Of the 30+ years of engine tear downs and builds I’ve yet to see a problem. I’m not saying others should follow my advice but it’s always worked good for me.
I keep the factory oil in for 200 miles, drain and change oil and filter.
I use amsoil and change after every other race day or 8 hours.
Street driving I change every season. I rarely put 500-1000 street miles on per year.
I also strictly run race fuel. I never run pump gas.
I swap spark plugs every other race day or 8 hours of track time.

 

[GT350-H6088]

I put over 300 miles of dyno time on my first GT350 (16 track pack) before the car had 100 miles on the odometer.
Never used any oil.
Once the weather breaks I’ll be doing the same to my 18R.
I don’t believe in pussy footing break ins. I don’t abuse my cars but I do drive them and I pull red line pulls once the engine oil and coolant temps are at max operating temps.
Of the 30+ years of engine tear downs and builds I’ve yet to see a problem. I’m not saying others should follow my advice but it’s always worked good for me.
I keep the factory oil in for 200 miles, drain and change oil and filter.
I use amsoil and change after every other race day or 8 hours.
Street driving I change every season. I rarely put 500-1000 street miles on per year.
I also strictly run race fuel. I never run pump gas.
I swap spark plugs every other race day or 8 hours of track time.

I agree 100%

"I don’t believe in pussy footing break ins. I don’t abuse my cars but I do drive them and I pull red line pulls once the engine oil and coolant temps are at max operating temps."
This is very important

"I keep the factory oil in for 200 miles, drain and change oil and filter."
The Ford Mechanic said this almost verbatim, I think he said 500 mi. He also said with hand built new parts there are some sharp edges and part break-in wear that will result in material
in the oil, this can quickly clog the filter and smaller particles can re-enter the oil and cause issues if lets too long.

If I get to the track this year I also will be doing your pre and post prep track procedures.
I did them with my 2005 when I was Drag Racing so it just makes sense to me.

 

[GT350-H6088]

Hey Everyone, I still need some NON "R" GT350's Tags please

 

[Nfs1000f]

Hey Everyone, I still need some NON "R" GT350's Tags please

Non “R”

 

[GT350-H6088]

Still looking for more Engine ID tags
2016 - 2019 GT350 and GT350R

Need just the tag picture, Car build date (inside driver door jam) and Car Number

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