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Mach 1 - Bad A/C?

jimharrell

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So while the AC does blow cold, when it gets super hot here in Central FL, it seems it can't keep up with it? It was like 104 here a month back and while driving on the highway, I wasn't feeling any relief really with it set to recirculate, LOW, and on the 4th fan setting plus ventilated seats. Granted, I think I may have a had a little bit of heat exhaustion too, but really was not cooling the cabin down until the outside got below 95. Worth having the dealer check the pressures? Plus takes at least 10 minutes to really feel any relief in the cabin if it's hot inside. It does blow cold air. It just seems it takes it a long time to catch up and can't if it's too hot outside. I had a '19 GT that I thought the A/C was way better on. Or my friend's Camaro SS has waaaay better A/C...
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The fastback design of the S550 lends itself to attracting heat. The rear window is huge skylight. The front, not much better.

Florida, 104 F, 40 C.

Some links to give one an estimate of the interior temps:

https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-...hicle-interior-air-temperature-v-elapsed-time

https://goodcalculators.com/inside-car-temperature-calculator/

Is the car tinted? I had ceramic tint, 30% back and sides, 70% full windshield installed shortly after taking receipt of the car. In your location, tint should be mandatory.

At least one radiator fan should be spinning when the A/C is turned on, to help cool the condenser. Can you tell, are they working?

While I don't do it in Skye, I often crack a window and inch or so as I initially start off, to rid the car of excess temps and help bring things down faster.

I don't use recirculate immediately. The interior of the car will be hotter than the outside. I often give it a few minutes, to get cooler, outside air in first.

Back to your original question, given all the variables, 10 minutes doesn't seem like a long time to me? The interior is black. You're hot. Everything inside the car is hot. I feel mine works as expected (good-to-great, normal, as expected, etc.) on even the hottest days. Those living in FL, TX or other southern states can offer feedback how they fair.
 
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Doug V

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So while the AC does blow cold, when it gets super hot here in Central FL, it seems it can't keep up with it? It was like 104 here a month back and while driving on the highway, I wasn't feeling any relief really with it set to recirculate, LOW, and on the 4th fan setting plus ventilated seats. Granted, I think I may have a had a little bit of heat exhaustion too, but really was not cooling the cabin down until the outside got below 95. Worth having the dealer check the pressures? Plus takes at least 10 minutes to really feel any relief in the cabin if it's hot inside. It does blow cold air. It just seems it takes it a long time to catch up and can't if it's too hot outside. I had a '19 GT that I thought the A/C was way better on. Or my friend's Camaro SS has waaaay better A/C...
My 2020 has similar problem in extreme heat. Otherwise not bad. Took it to get serviced. It has a small measurable leak on the high pressure hose.

Your car's AC should keep up in the heat. I drove through 100+ in the desert all day and it did great. Cooling seats and all. Plus rental of the same year did fine in Arizona summer temps.
 

ORRadtech

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Lots of things can cause what you describe. Some you can check yourself
Dusty environments can clog the cabin filler, as mentioned check the radiator fans for operation, check that the condenser is not blocked or clogged, watch the compressorclutchto see how oftenit cycles. If those look OK then consider taking it to a shop. Ford if you're still under warranty, a specialized car ac shop or a good local mechanic if not.
 

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jimharrell

jimharrell

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I think you should get the AC serviced. It should be keeping up and sounds like it is under-performing. Also, a good tint will go a long way to keeping things cooler.
I already have 5% ceramic tint all around besides the windshield. Forgot to mention that.
 
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jimharrell

jimharrell

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The fastback design of the S550 lends itself to attracting heat. The rear window is huge skylight. The front, not much better.

Florida, 104 F, 40 C.

Some links to give one an estimate of the interior temps:

https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-...hicle-interior-air-temperature-v-elapsed-time

https://goodcalculators.com/inside-car-temperature-calculator/

Is the car tinted? I had ceramic tint, 30% back and sides, 70% full windshield installed shortly after taking receipt of the car. In your location, tint should be mandatory.

At least one radiator fan should be spinning when the A/C is turned on, to help cool the condenser. Can you tell, are they working?

While I don't do it in Skye, I often crack a window and inch or so as I initially start off, to rid the car of excess temps and help bring things down faster.

I don't use recirculate immediately. The interior of the car will be hotter than the outside. I often give it a few minutes, to get cooler, outside air in first.

Back to your original question, given all the variables, 10 minutes doesn't seem like a long time to me? The interior is black. You're hot. Everything inside the car is hot. I feel mine works as expected (good-to-great, normal, as expected, etc.) on even the hottest days. Those living in FL, TX or other southern states can offer feedback how they fair.
That is 10 minutes if it's just in the low 90's. 100+? It's like it never cools off inside.
 
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jimharrell

jimharrell

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Lots of things can cause what you describe. Some you can check yourself
Dusty environments can clog the cabin filler, as mentioned check the radiator fans for operation, check that the condenser is not blocked or clogged, watch the compressorclutchto see how oftenit cycles. If those look OK then consider taking it to a shop. Ford if you're still under warranty, a specialized car ac shop or a good local mechanic if not.
Dealer already said they'd need it a whole day just to check the pressures. Ridiculous!
 

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Our 2015 Mustang developed a slow refrigerant leak about 60k miles or so, so every year since then I have to add a can of R134 and then we are good for another season. In Houston, and this always happens about this time.
 

Skye

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That is 10 minutes if it's just in the low 90's. 100+? It's like it never cools off inside.
With the symptoms you've described and the amount of tint, agree with others: it'd be a good idea to get her checked out.

Dealer already said they'd need it a whole day just to check the pressures. Ridiculous!
Dealers are short techs nowadays. And being Summer traveling season, they're probably slammed even more.

I've found the best days for drop-offs are Tue-Thu. I'll walk in a week before and agree to a date, discuss if any common parts need to be ordered ahead of time, etc. I feel greasing the skids as much as possible helps.
 
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ORRadtech

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Dealer already said they'd need it a whole day just to check the pressures. Ridiculous!
Ridiculous? Not really, it sounds like any other repair shop. Make an appointment, drop the car off and pick it up later or the next day. They're all busy and most do the best they can with the staffing they have. It's even extended to tire shops. Dropped my Edge off last week for a rotate and balance. It took them 6 hours because something went wrong to the car ahead of mine. You just never know. Say you drop yours off to check pressures, what a 30 minute job, but they find something wrong and you ok fixing it while they have it. How far back would that push whoever is behind you?
Not ridiculous at all.
Better to know before hand than find out after you leave it...
 

IPOGT

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I already have 5% ceramic tint all around besides the windshield. Forgot to mention that.
Iā€™m in SOFLO and no problem here. Have your refrigerant levels checked also.
 

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SOLVED!

Blowing hot on one side, cold on the passenger side.

Code B1086 - Air Distribution Damper Motor

So I did fix the AC on my Wife's car and it was the damper motor and I was getting a code also. I bought a Chinese knockoff on Amazon, $10, and it works now. Once you install it, it will take about 1 hour for the computer to figure out the position open and close on the damper for hot and cold. The aftermarket Chinese ones with White Teflon gears are better quality than Ford with black ABS gears. There is only 1 of those motors on the V6 basic Mustang as it does not have separate passenger and driver zone control. The motor is located behind the stereo above the drivers gas pedal, 2 - TORX T20 screws hold it on, and when you take it off be careful as the plastic gears fall out.

I did in fact put in too much R134a also thinking that was it, hitting 300+ PSI on the hot side, so I removed some and I show small leaks as leak detector dye shows leaks pretty much on the entire system wherever there is rubber O rings, also some dye on the drains for the AC under the car. I will keep on babying it along as there is no point in re-doing all the o-rings and evaporator core on an AC system that cannot last more than 50k miles before it starts to leak again.
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