What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[skinnyb]

What would you recommend? I always presumed dark side is kind of a once every few months dressing and in between use whatever you want for a spruce up.

When I used Darkside, I just would clean and go. They stay pretty nice for quite a while without reapplication, a simple soap and rinse did OK for a few weeks at least. Thats the whole idea behind it. If you are an apply every wash or 2 kind of person, I would use something less durable and easier to remove and reapply. I have become that type of person, I scrub and reapply every other wash normally now, I find that KCx PSS lasts at least 2-3 washes for me now. And still looks great in between. This was after about 3 washes without reapplying, nothing but soap to clean with. Our forum expert might have a better idea, oh paging @DFB5.0

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[DFB5.0]

Got a chance to try out one of Gyeon's latest arrivals today, Eco Wash.

Q²M ECO Wash | Gyeon Quartz USA (gyeonusa.com)
Gyeon Q2M Eco Wash 1L | Product | Car Care Products Australia

Eco Wash is Gyeon's take on a rinse-less and water-less wash concentrate. Unlike most rinse-less wash products, Eco Wash joins Carpro ECH20 and Opti-Coat No Rinse in having Si02 in the formula to boost gloss and slickness. Eco Wash and Carpro ECH20 share a lot in common, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same base formula. The only thing I can't nail down is if Eco Wash is polymer or surfactant based, probably the former.

Like most rinse-less wash coventrates, the dilution ration can be changed to suit different roles. Unlike most, Gyeon don't suggest using Eco Wash as a clay lubricant, which is probably down to the Si02 it leaves behind.

Rinse-less washing - 150:1 to 256:1
Water-less washing - 10:1 to 15:1
Drying Aid - 20:1

Only needing a refresh, the perfect test subject was the Ranger. In this case, I used pre-soaked with the same 256:1 bucket solution, then used TRC Eagle Edgeless 500's. Sticking with the Gyeon theme, I grabbed Gyeon Ceramic Detailer for the drying aid. I also used the same dilution to wipe down the tray, engine bay and door jambs.

I found Eco Wash needed a little more towel work to fully dry than the ONR I used last week, which could have been the Ceramic Detailer, a product I have struggled with in the past. The chilly winter morning didn't help either. Apart from that, Eco Wash is very pleasant to use, with a lovely scent and a slick, gloss finish.

In recent times, I have been using these XL brushes from Detail Factory and Maxshine to apply tyre dressings. The synthetic bristle versions are superb for larger profile tyres, usually above a 40 series. The boars hair version ideal for lower profile tyres. What I have found with the synthetic version is that the bristles finish the dressing down so well that you really don't need to knock the dressing down afterwards, saving time and towels.

In this case, the DF synthetic version was starting to get a bit grotty. Because I favor water-based tyre dressings, cleaning the brush with a little APC or tyre cleaner easily brings them back to life.

The Mustang goes in for the replacement battery and terminal tomorrow, wish me luck! I've taken the time to remove the battery cover before it goes in to avoid them loosing those horrible scrivets into the depths of the engine bay. I also discovered that the CTEK whip line has fused to the battery terminal, so I'll have to replace that as well.

 

[DFB5.0]

What would you recommend? I always presumed dark side is kind of a once every few months dressing and in between use whatever you want for a spruce up.

Darkside is termed a tire "sealant", meaning it will last longer than a tire "dressing", but not as long as a tire "coating". However, take the longevity of Darkside with a grain of salt. I actually like Darkside, but it's not a go-to for me for reasons I explain below.

I would avoid tire coatings, the prep work for them to bond properly with the rubber is extensive, and if you screw it up, they are extremely difficult to remove. I also find tire sealants are typically solvent based, which means they are messier to apply and remove. For this reason and the fact I like applying tire dressing more than any other detailing task, I almost always use water-based tire dressings.

As mentioned in a previous post, you can't go wrong with Carpro Perl, it can go from glossy to "barely there" depending on dilution. (You will need a spray bottle to dilute Perl, start with 1:1 and adjust accordingly if needed.)

CARPRO PERL 500ml (17oz) (carpro-us.com)
CARPRO Dilute w/ Trigger 500ml (17oz) (carpro-us.com)

If you want some added durability beyond what a typical water-based dressing will deliver, then Koch Chemie PSS is worth a look. It applies very differently than most dressings, it goes on quite wet then turns sticky as it "flashes" away, then sets up dry.

Koch-Chemie - Plast Star Silicone-Free | The Rag Company

Adam's Graphene is another favorite, it's easy to apply, easy to remove, and produces a wonderful satin sheen.

Graphene Tire Dressing™ (adamspolishes.com)

The product I have been using the most recently has been Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing. This can do gloss, satin or matte finishes, is easy to apply and smells lovely. For whatever reason, this product seems to work very well with difficult Michelin tires, producing a more consistent finish compared to many other alternatives. Expensive, but a bottle will last a long time.

Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing | Tire Shine

With all of the above, buy the smallest bottle possible, especially for Perl as it is generally diluted out.

Some extended reading for you -
The Tyre Dressing Form Guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[DFB5.0]

Of course, it had to rain today! I know, I know. Cars are to be driven, but we all have our preferences. I do my best to not drive the "special" cars in the rain, but needs must, I wanted that battery thing dealt with!

The service manager said they would cover the cost of a replacement battery and battery terminal clamp. However, I had already ordered the terminal clamp and decided I would pick it up and pay for it. Because there were two similar part numbers, I wanted to know it was the correct item rather than the possibility of delaying the process if the part was incorrect. See, this is what I go through every time I have someone work on one of my cars!

For those wondering, the part number for the negative terminal clamp of a 2015 - 2017 S550 Mustang is the following -

Ford Part Number - GU5Z 14450 A
Price - $42.57

I also noticed when I removed the battery cover yesterday before taking the car in, the CTEK whip line would not survive the replacement process. Thankfully, Repco had a replacement in stock, so I left the new one in the cup holder with the terminal in the hope they would get the hint. Thankfully, they installed the new one for me.

https://www.repco.com.au/globes-bat...e-terminals-56-260/p/A9337381?kwSearch=eyelet

I'm guessing the removal of the old terminal nuts would have posed a few challenges as they were heavily corroded. I'd say they would have had to hammer a smaller socket onto it. If they were smart, all they had to do was release the nut holding the negative lead to the terminal clamp, then junked the old clamp along with the battery.

New 625cca Motorcraft battery installed.

Once home, I decided to thoroughly wash the engine bay. No pictures here, it was still raining and I had my head down, bum up. I approached this like any other engine bay detail, starting with a rinse using the pressure washer, applied KCx Green Star APC to the whole engine bay, lightly scrubbed with a flagged tipped wheel brush, rinsed again then liberally applied Megs Hyper Dressing. I then followed with the blower to remove excess water and distribute the Hyper Dressing. The hood is then lowered and the rest of the car washed. Always do this BEFORE washing the rest of the car so that you can deal with any overspray.

In this case, I washed the wheels and paint with Opti-Coat M-Wash, a strong favorite of mine. By then the rain had stopped, so I blew the car down in the driveway (garage was full so no room to fling water around onto already clean/dry cars), then moved in for the final dry using Megs Last Touch (a blast from the past that I find does well in damp conditions). After dealing with the rest of the car, the hood went up again for a final wipe over to mop up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.

From now on, all cars will have this applied to them.......................

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/crc-crc-battery-terminal-protector-300g/654863.html

With the battery cover re-fitted, without losing one of those dam scrivets , I put the Mustang back to bed under its cover.

As mentioned in a previous post, I didn't bring this issue up with the dealer in an attempt to get a new battery for free. I was all set to go and replace the battery before I was phoned, hence ordering the terminal clamp. It was about pointing out an issue relating to a procedure that is included in the service schedule. A procedure that clearly was not done. Hopefully the Tech responsible learnt a lesson here rather than seeing it as a nuisance customer causing trouble. So, kudos to the service manager for putting things right.

What's next for the Mustang? I want to give the car a final polish in my care, which is a twofold thing. Firstly, it gives me a chance to try out the new Rupes HLR-15 polisher. Secondly, it will mark the beginning of me saying goodby.

 

[skinnyb]

Of course, it had to rain today! I know, I know. Cars are to be driven, but we all have our preferences. I do my best to not drive the "special" cars in the rain, but needs must, I wanted that battery thing dealt with!

The service manager said they would cover the cost of a replacement battery and battery terminal clamp. However, I had already ordered the terminal clamp and decided I would pick it up and pay for it. Because there were two similar part numbers, I wanted to know it was the correct item rather than the possibility of delaying the process if the part was incorrect. See, this is what I go through every time I have someone work on one of my cars!

For those wondering, the part number for the negative terminal clamp of a 2015 - 2017 S550 Mustang is the following -

Ford Part Number - GU5Z 14450 A
Price - $42.57

I also noticed when I removed the battery cover yesterday before taking the car in, the CTEK whip line would not survive the replacement process. Thankfully, Repco had a replacement in stock, so I left the new one in the cup holder with the terminal in the hope they would get the hint. Thankfully, they installed the new one for me.

https://www.repco.com.au/globes-bat...e-terminals-56-260/p/A9337381?kwSearch=eyelet

I'm guessing the removal of the old terminal nuts would have posed a few challenges as they were heavily corroded. I'd say they would have had to hammer a smaller socket onto it. If they were smart, all they had to do was release the nut holding the negative lead to the terminal clamp, then junked the old clamp along with the battery.

New 625cca Motorcraft battery installed.

Once home, I decided to thoroughly wash the engine bay. No pictures here, it was still raining and I had my head down, bum up. I approached this like any other engine bay detail, starting with a rinse using the pressure washer, applied KCx Green Star APC to the whole engine bay, lightly scrubbed with a flagged tipped wheel brush, rinsed again then liberally applied Megs Hyper Dressing. I then followed with the blower to remove excess water and distribute the Hyper Dressing. The hood is then lowered and the rest of the car washed. Always do this BEFORE washing the rest of the car so that you can deal with any overspray.

In this case, I washed the wheels and paint with Opti-Coat M-Wash, a strong favorite of mine. By then the rain had stopped, so I blew the car down in the driveway (garage was full so no room to fling water around onto already clean/dry cars), then moved in for the final dry using Megs Last Touch (a blast from the past that I find does well in damp conditions). After dealing with the rest of the car, the hood went up again for a final wipe over to mop up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.

From now on, all cars will have this applied to them.......................

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/crc-crc-battery-terminal-protector-300g/654863.html

With the battery cover re-fitted, without losing one of those dam scrivets , I put the Mustang back to bed under its cover.

As mentioned in a previous post, I didn't bring this issue up with the dealer in an attempt to get a new battery for free. I was all set to go and replace the battery before I was phoned, hence ordering the terminal clamp. It was about pointing out an issue relating to a procedure that is included in the service schedule. A procedure that clearly was not done. Hopefully the Tech responsible learnt a lesson here rather than seeing it as a nuisance customer causing trouble. So, kudos to the service manager for putting things right.

What's next for the Mustang? I want to give the car a final polish in my care, which is a twofold thing. Firstly, it gives me a chance to try out the new Rupes HLR-15 polisher. Secondly, it will mark the beginning of me saying goodby.

Looks great . I have grown to love M wash as well. I just got a couple new ones this week to try my next couple washes. Shampoo+ from ADS and Shine Supply Shift. Have heard wonderful things about them both.

As for saying goodbye, I know the feeling. It is always a melancholy moment when I trade in a vehicle especially one I really love., at least you have some time to process it I usually make my decisions spur of the moment... But upgrades are always good

 

[kilobravo]

Uh oh, "quote happy" again. <BSEG>

cleaning the brush with a little APC or tyre cleaner easily brings them back to life.

Same here, D and Adam's APC is my goto cleaner, use it ALL the time.

I also discovered that the CTEK whip line has fused to the battery terminal, so I'll have to replace that as well.

I'm guessing the removal of the old terminal nuts would have posed a few challenges as they were heavily corroded.

From now on, all cars will have this applied to them.

Big fan of CRC products BUT..

That tale doesn't sound AT ALL like the obsessive detailing wizard I know, are you slippin' my friend? Corroded battery terminals...really?! <BSEG>

For this reason and the fact I like applying tire dressing more than any other detailing task, I almost always use water-based tire dressings.

Ditto D but, I must admit, I was surprised to learn that dressing tires is your favorite detailing task. I DO enjoy it but I'd have to say my favorite would be buffing the topper. Gloss makes my old brain happy. <smile>

(You will need a spray bottle to dilute Perl, start with 1:1 and adjust accordingly if needed.)

I've never sprayed Perl. Instead, I put it in a squeeze bottle slightly diluted and squirt it into the tire brush.

..then Koch Chemie PSS is worth a look.

I'm not a "shiny tire" kinda guy as you know but I did like the look of KC PSS. Tried DarkSide and while it does last a good while, it's not for me either. Love Perl and still use it on the other two vehicles but the special girl gets OG's product and like you, it is now my favorite.

For whatever reason, this product seems to work very well with difficult Michelin tires,

A big plus for sure.

Ford Part Number - GU5Z 14450 A
Price - $42.57

Geezus, FORTY-THREE frickin' bones for what couldn't possibly cost more than a few bucks to manufacture! I swear, if this continues at this pace, the world economy is going to go the route of the Romans. UFB!

..those horrible scrivets

Obviously another addition to my Down Under vocabulary D, and I'm guessing the term refers to those persnickity push pins? ;=)

Secondly, it will mark the beginning of me saying goodby.

I was wondering about the fate of your current Mustang after hearing about the new one coming. Always difficult to say goodbye to an old friend and the only thing that takes the sting out of it for me is the excitement surrounding the one replacing it.

I know you almost certainly have enough with all the posts you've made including her but, be sure you have enough photos to remember the car properly and if not, grab some more over the next six months or so before you have to say goodbye for the last time. I so wish I had done this with all my previous vehicles from back in the day.

 

[DFB5.0]

Big fan of CRC products BUT..

That tale doesn't sound AT ALL like the obsessive detailing wizard I know, are you slippin' my friend? Corroded battery terminals...really?! <BSEG>

I've never sprayed Perl. Instead, I put it in a squeeze bottle slightly diluted and squirt it into the tire brush.

Obviously another addition to my Down Under vocabulary D, and I'm guessing the term refers to those persnickity push pins? ;=)

I was wondering about the fate of your current Mustang after hearing about the new one coming. Always difficult to say goodbye to an old friend and the only thing that takes the sting out of it for me is the excitement surrounding the one replacing it.

I know you almost certainly have enough with all the posts you've made including her but, be sure you have enough photos to remember the car properly and if not, grab some more over the next six months or so before you have to say goodbye for the last time. I so wish I had done this with all my previous vehicles from back in the day.

Because the battery is covered with a trim panel, and the CTEK cable is routed from underneath the cover, the battery is not visible and gets forgotten about. Certainly not an excuse, just laziness on my part for not making the check more regularly. It seems to be a common occurrence on these cars.

As for spraying Perl, its not directly onto the tires, rather sprayed into a brush or applicator. Same with OG Tire Dressing.

Yes, push pins = scrivets.

And yes, I have an EXTENSIVE collection of images on this car. I do however want to capture some driving videos, just so I can remember what the car sounded like, how I would drive it.

 

[skinnyb]

Because the battery is covered with a trim panel, and the CTEK cable is routed from underneath the cover, the battery is not visible and gets forgotten about. Certainly not an excuse, just laziness on my part for not making the check more regularly. It seems to be a common occurrence on these cars.

As for spraying Perl, its not directly onto the tires, rather sprayed into a brush or applicator. Same with OG Tire Dressing.

Yes, push pins = scrivets.

And yes, I have an EXTENSIVE collection of images on this car. I do however want to capture some driving videos, just so I can remember what the car sounded like, how I would drive it.

I never thought to call them that LOL. Screw/Rivet. Scrivet

 

[DFB5.0]

I never thought to call them that LOL. Screw/Rivet. Scrivet

Must be an Aussie thing then, I thought that's what everyone called them.

 

[skinnyb]

Must be an Aussie thing then, I thought that's what everyone called them.

Nah, I am with Kilo, I call them Push pins too...

 

[DFB5.0]

Nah, I am with Kilo, I call them Push pins too...

Well, officially, they are called Rivet - Blind....................................

 

[Bulutt]

CanCoat?

………..Sure can.

Hit it with CanCoat back in September last year. Even though it was still fine I spruced it up with Wetcoat on the weekend. Been raining here for a few days and the beading is insane. Best of all the water runs off as I drive leaving the car remarkably clean.

 

[DFB5.0]

Hit it with CanCoat back in September last year. Even though it was still fine I spruced it up with Wetcoat on the weekend. Been raining here for a few days and the beading is insane. Best of all the water runs off as I drive leaving the car remarkably clean.

I got about 15 months out of Can Coat EVO on my father's Ranger that is parked outdoors 24/7. When I washed it a week ago, I basically killed what was left of Can Coat using Megs Hyper Wash (about pH 9.8), its toast. I gave the car a quick hit with Wet Coat and a layer of Koch Chemie S0.02 to tide me through winter.

But, I'm very pleased with how Can Coat did. It was washed once a month and topped with a drying aid of some sort. I also decon washed a couple of times to revive it. Other than that, which is what I would do anyway, 15 months out of a simple 12-month spray and wipe coating is brilliant.

 

[Bulutt]

I got about 15 months out of Can Coat EVO on my father's Ranger that is parked outdoors 24/7. When I washed it a week ago, I basically killed what was left of Can Coat using Megs Hyper Wash (about pH 9.8), its toast. I gave the car a quick hit with Wet Coat and a layer of Koch Chemie S0.02 to tide me through winter.

But, I'm very pleased with how Can Coat did. It was washed once a month and topped with a drying aid of some sort. I also decon washed a couple of times to revive it. Other than that, which is what I would do anyway, 15 months out of a simple 12-month spray and wipe coating is brilliant.

As I said, my car really was still beading almost like new but I had an itch so had to scratch it.

 

[kilobravo]

Because the battery is covered with a trim panel, and the CTEK cable is routed from underneath the cover, the battery is not visible and gets forgotten about.

OK, you get to slide on this one, D. <BSEG> Honestly, I was just ribbing you, I rarely pop the cover to look. <smile>

I never thought to call them that LOL. Screw/Rivet. Scrivet

YOU FIGURED IT OUT, Alex! Why I didn't put two and two together like that, I have no idea but, you nailed it.

Must be an Aussie thing then, I thought that's what everyone called them.

I would say that you are correct, amigo as I've never heard the term until you posted it.

As for the "Blind" moniker, I kinda get that, Ford but it's still weird. :=) "Push pin" to me, fits the bill more better.

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