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So you’re proud of this?

McGard.

This 4th brake light looks like a simple install. https://www.diodedynamics.com/2015-2023-ford-mustang-4th-brake-light.html FWIW, when wiring, I like to keep it secured with plastic zip ties or Velcro ties, and free from future corrosion with a dab of dielectric grease. Velcro ties

So when you press the brake pedal, four brake lights will illuminate on the back of your Mustang?

I see you're in CA. FWIW, I have JLT on my winter vehicle, but I live in WI. From about October-April, mine will accumulate 95% water (simple condensation). It'll catch about 1 oz per 1K miles. IIRC, the 3.7 is a very good engine.

How much is in there? If that’s a JLT, probably a 3oz can. About a quarter ounce in there? Is it all oil? Appears to be. Purchase a see-thru beaker with graduations, like this. Keep track of miles and amount accumulated...

You do not want one that empties back into the oil pan, for the simple fact that it not only collects crankcase byproducts, but it also collects condensation (water). it must be manually drained.

Can you cite which law that is? Even more interesting would be to find a lawsuit(s) ever brought against a mfr for not stocking parts.

So Michelin’s warranty on all PP1 cars is cut in half? All PP1 wheels are staggered, 9”, 9-1/2”.

Are you sure your p-zero neros are run flat?

Hey genius, fact that you quoted me shows you don’t know what you’re talking about. A friend had their Mustang rear end modded by their friend who was a so called “expert”. It only took an extra $700 parts/labor by a pro to fix the “experts” work.

I’ll add this: Changes to the diff should only be completed by a professional. If you don’t know what you’re doing, leave it alone and hire a pro to perform the work.

How did they get “damaged”?

Changing or modifying the brake/accelerator pedal in any way always scares me. I know some are made for a clutch pedal, but ugh. Since you’re both short, my first suggestion would be to investigate a seat bracket mod that would bring it ahead a couple inches. Another option would be to have a...

You may have seen this one too. It’s always interesting to see how different Techs work. Oh, one thing I will mention is that if a guy has some miles on their Mustang, when you remove that large belly pan, you’ll be amazed at how much dirt and how many pebbles it can hold - lol.

That’s an awesome mod, I love it! (I do like the drivers side positioning better than the passenger side though.) Could you please post link to source of those emblems? Looks great, well done! Was it relatively cold when you were making the change over? Reason I ask is a hair dryer or the...

My LOL is two fold: 1) Anyone that believes they can apply dielectric grease to both the inside of the boot and ceramic body without getting any on the end is a fool. 2) As stated in the video, from the SAE trained professional I cited, 30 years of use myself, and dielectric grease mfrs like...

LOL. Besides successfully using dielectric grease on spark plugs and boots for over 30 years myself with zero issues, I just verified the use of dielectric grease on spark plug connections, not just boot ID, with a very seasoned and highly respected ASE Certified Professional I’ve known for...

Explanation for this statement? I’d submit the video below as justification for the OP TO USE A DAB OF DIELECTRIC GREASE on the inside of the spark plug boot, on the plug end where it fits into the boot, and on the opposite end of the cop wire.

Wrap presents, not cars.