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100% what I was thinking. If one does not agree with the topic, or thinks it's a waste of time, please start a new thread in an off topic section and/or another venu, if this board does not allow "politics" talk.

Welcome, AI BOT???

Close, mine is a triple bag (3T). I wanted the double bag, as they are even lower and you don't need to remove the rubber puck on top. But I could only order them through Alibaba, and even they eventually said "not available". The shipping on that one you posted is insane, so keep an eye on that...

I bought these mainly for my 4 post. I have one cross jack and usually use a jacking plate on the rear. I've always used bottle jacks, but they are rather unstable many times. These "just" squeak under rear control arm on 20+ GT500, after you remove rubber "bumper" on top. I used a thin...

Isn't Ford constantly telling us the dealers are their own "entity". Like if dealer "A" messes up your car on warrantee work, Ford won't pay for a different dealer to fix it, claiming the dealers are "independent" shops. Point is, you would be suing the dealer for the damage, not Ford...

I'm almost wondering if someone jacked up the entire front end, maybe right on that end of the arm. Seems odd it would oblong like that, through any usage on the street (or even track).

I meant just leave the camber, instead of moving it to something more "street" friendly, after track use. I just assumed when you changed camber, you change toe some (maybe not enough to matter).

Thanks for the toe info. Could just leave it I guess. Will have to see how ambitious I am after a track day. Might just be left out of laziness. 🙂

Dual use, but pretty limited street miles (road course 4ish times a year). I have an older Hunter align system and level'd 4 post/plates. Plan on setting front camber in both track/street positions, see how much toe changes, then hopefully change toe "back" after track use, without setting up...

Pretty set on what I'm going to do for camber, front and back. Wondering what Toe you'all are running and why?

You ever weigh it?

Thinking of pulling the sub also, for track use.

And how much is that switch, in case you wear it out?? :) On a side, note, is there a reason I shouldn't just take that trunk module out? Never hurts to lose even a lb or two on these "big girls".

I'd do it even for resale, if selling private (since most of the service history is avail to anyone these days), unless you are trading in.

I think I'd be asking for an extended drivetrain warrantee (or even just the trans covered- 10yrs/100K) if not being replaced. BARE minimum, is they split the cost on one, with you.

Agree. You see guys building entire engine compartments/firewalls with complex curves, and as mentioned, I still don't see how an English Wheel actually works. That's awesome on the rzr :sunglasses:, but I now need to see how it gets up there.

Guys that can proficiently use an English Wheel, dumbfound me.

Sounds it, I'm jealous. :)

You got me beat if you can do bodywork well. I built my own rock crawler from the ground up w/unimog axles (built my own cage, suspension, steering links, traction bar, etc) and the entire trailer it's sitting on. But the bodywork I have done was WAY harder, to do right (which I don't, I'm a...

CFTP is 3/4 inch lower than not (so I'm told). My alignment system is older, so laser has to see other laser, under front bumper (or bumper cover, or edge of fwd fender, etc..). This is the front head on my system (mounted on my mom's Grand Marq on the floor, just to try out something I might...